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Q. I have a 1985 Mondial 3.0 QV that will not
start. The fuel pump is not coming on. I checked all the relays, fuses
and wiring that I could. I replaced the
fuel pump but that wasn't the problem. What turns on the fuel pump
relay? Unplugging the safety switch does not work. This car has the new
fuse box. It used to start but I have had nothing but trouble since I
had to replace the oil hose that connected the oil cooler to the engine.
Any ideas? Where does the + battery cable go. I suspect the junction
where the cable ties into the circuits has a short or a broken wire in
it.
Bruce Quan
A. Check the wiring blocks located near the oil hose you
replaced. Read the WSM for more info. If you don't have one you should
get one or download one from the web.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2002 360
modena. Is there a special anti freeze, coolant used in the car or can
you just use prestone all model and how do you tell the fill level?
There are no marks.
Scott Ascough
A. Antifreeze if it is blue is Texaco. You can find it if you shop
around. Sometimes at Advance Auto Parts. If it is green you have no idea
most times but you can use the Prestone universal for now. Best bet is
to make sure the fluid is kept fresh ever year. If you are going to do
it yourself. Make sure the shop doing the belt service drains the entire
system when the belts are done. Some guys don't drain the system at the
dealership so keep that in mind. The level is in the owners manual. If
you don't have one you should get one or download one from the web.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I understand that the
actuators from the suspension system (mostly on the front shocks) found
in the 550 Maranello's tend to spin and break. What can I do to stop
them from spining? If I want to go with aftermarket suspension (shocks
and springs) thus deleting the stock suspension along with the actuators
and the ECU for them; doing this will it affect the Motronic? I mean
will it go in limp mode, not allowing all the power from the engine?
Also, will it affect the ASR/ABS system? Any imput is of great help.
Thank you.
Nistor Alexandru
A. I do not know of an aftermarket replacement for the shocks. There
are ways around the actuators but I cannot go into that here. If you are
toggling back and forth from sport to normal, bad roads, or poor
maintenance will tax the actuators more then normal. Shocks also go bad.
The plastic gear inside the actuator goes bad. I heard of someone that
made his own metal replacement. They are not hard to replace and a good
wrench could locate a bad actuator. You also have to consider it is not
the only part of the system. Read the owners book and WSM.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2002 360
spider. The check engine light is on and the code I keep getting is
misfire in cylender 4. I changed the spark plug and coil pack for that
cyl and the check engine stil comes on a few hours after.
Matthew Silberzweig
A. Your 360 needs to be checked with the sd/2. You are near me, e-mail me your contact information.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2001 360
Modena and had the rear main seal replaced, after replacing only the
seal it developed a high pitched whistling sound in that area when the
engine is idling and low speed. It will go away if we remove a valve
cover hose and vent it to the atmosphere?
Rick
A. I suspect a vacuum leak. Make sure the throttle bodies are tight
and the the vacuum hose under the right side cover is hooked up. I would
take it back to the shop before I played around with it. I'm sure they
will look at it for you. You may want to know that Rocco in Toronto has a
SD/2.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. My 1990 348ts was
driven less than 200 miles over the past year plus. I took it out to get
it smog checked and it passed but the ABS brake light has come on and
stays on. The brakes seem normal and I see no leaks. The fluid is clean
and remains at the correct level. What could be the problem?
Roger Torneden
A. Check the fuse located in the front of the car. Refer to the WSM for any other fuses that are bad.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have 1994 456GT and
the heater/blower has developed an iritating whining noise which seems
to be there no matter what the heater setting also when the fan is
engaged it runs then cuts out for a second then kicks in again
continuously? Any help please? kind regards
John Reynolds
A. All I can think is to first check the grounds and power supply. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. How do I do an oil change on a 575? Is there any special way of doing it?
Tiny
A. Without a Work Shop Manual you are wasting your time. Take the
lower tray off, remove the 2 filters and retorque new ones, drain the
sump and the tank. Fill with proper amount of oil start warm to correct
temperature and top off oil tank. You should take this car to someone
that knows how to do this job. The dif/trans also needscto be serviced
and brakes flushed. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have an 81 308 gtsi
that has an amber lamp on located in the instrument cluster above the
speedometer. There is no heating or cooling problems. fans work as well.
What trigers this lamp and where is it located, the relay or sender.
Thanks.
Rich Carter
A. That light sounds like the fan switch that is controled in the center console.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2001 360
manual, I can select all gears easy when engine is not running, but on
start up hot or cold, 2nd gear is extreamly difficult to select. Any
ideas? Thanks.
Darryn
A. All I can say is to take the car to the shop and have it checked
with the SD-2 to check the gear selector and the rest of the clutch
data. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I just bought a 1982
308gtsi on the weekend took it out for a blast with the restoration shop
I am purchasing it from after putting it through it"s paces when we
came into town. I noticed a fuel smell, when we returned to the shop I
popped the engine cover could see no signs of a leak but it seems to be
coming from the fuel tank vents or that area, any suggestions would be
great I will be doing it in my shop at home.
Ross Urquhart
A. All I can say is to look for a bad hose. You can have a lot of
them. Do you fill the car right to the top? Normal expansion could cause
some overflow. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a Ferrari
Maranello 1999, leather interior that we take apart to refinish and the
air bags lights are on. How I can set them up to off?
Heinz Ruhr
A. 1999 550 or any other Ferrari with air bangs needs a SD/2 or SD/3
[a SD/1 if you have one] to read the codes in the air bag node. It could
be as simple as a clearing of the codes or it might need a part.
Usually The ECU goes and it is located under the shifter tunnel. If you
had the correct part number you could just plug it in and that usually
puts the light out. The parts is very specific. Thing is they all look
alike. 550s have dashes the leather peels. Sometimes you can warm it and
repair it yourself. If the whole dash has to come out, you are looking
at a days work to remove and replace. I do not recommend taking the bulb
out. People could get hurt and they would be in biiiiiggggggggg
trouble. I think they are about $1400. Cheers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1991 348 TS.
While driving, if I prepare to stop by depressing the clutch and letting
off on the gas, say for stopping at a traffic light, the cars cuts off.
It will start back immediately. I suspect a vacuum leak. What do you
think?
John Freeman
A. Vacuum leak but check all hoses and clamps. Check the idle air control motors and their connections.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am working on a 1996
F355 Spyder, codes po131, po137, po151 and po157 o2 sensor low voltage. I
have replace all four o2 sensors and both catalytic converters. scan
tool shows .18 to .25 volts on o2 sensor readings with co around 3%. I
have replaced coolant and fuel filter also. The car seems to run good
and have good power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott Kurtzer
A. The car is running lean at .25v. Fuel? Air leak? You replaced a lot of expensive parts.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. How do I bleed the top
hydraulic system for my 97 convertible 355 spider? The top does not
close evenly. Need instructions on properly bleeding the convertible top
hydraulic system.?
Richard Negron
A. You need to get a WSM for bleed sequence. The top frame could be
bent. Check the reservoir first. If you don't have a WSM and parts book
they are EZ enough to locate.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. How can I remove the HVAC panel from a 99 Ferrari 360?
Victor Sanchez
A. Remove the front cover and then you will find screws securing the
hvac. Remove the electric connectors and that's it. If you don't have a
WSM and parts book get one. They are EZ enough to locate.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 92 512TR and
are going to change the Diff/trans/clutch gear fluid, what fluid works
best Royal Purple? RedLine? Amsoil? and how much to fill the owners
manual not clear on total amount. They say to fill lower fill hole till
it runs out and additionally add 17 pints through the top hole on the
clutch gear set. Could that be correct? Thanks.
Doug Morgan
A. That's not correct. Fill the lower hole till it runs out and half a
pint to the trannsfer gear fill plug. It sounds like you are not ready
for this job. The transfer cover has a fill and a drain. The cambio has a
fill and a large drain plug. The fill plug is barely visible. If you do
try this look at a parts book and WSM and think about measuring how
much comes out from where. I like to use Rredline 75/90 NS but your
local ferrari shop may prefer something different. Maybe a Pro should do
this for you and you follow.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Can I use Castrol JLM9886 hydraulic minneral oil in power top?
Randy Krup
A. As far as mineral oil for the top, I am not sure. You need to check
to see if the oil is compatible with the Mercedes Benz or Jaguar top
oil. They are the same as the Ferrari top oil.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2003 360. The
ac/heater blower continues to run sometimes even when the car is off and
key out of the ignition. I have replaced the AC ECM control box and
thought it was fixed! Just this past weekend I found out that it was
NOT! I feel like there is a blower relay or something that is sticking
or something that is not turning off the power to the blower motor. I
have searched thru the manual but did not see a relay or fuse specific
to the blower only the AC compressor. I did disconnect this and the fan
continued to run. If I crank up the car several times, sometimes this
clears-resets the problem...till next time. I have been turning off the
battery power switch to keep from running my battery down. Your help
would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!.
Griffin Person
A. Section i 2.06 in the WSM covers the heater/evaporator unit in the
360 Ferrari. You are looking for the electric fan speed control unit.
This fan speed unit is on the passenger side under the dash. Please let
us know what you find. You could also have Ferrari of NC or call the
guys at Foreign Cars Italia [good guys to know as they have helped me
out in the past] scan the car with a SD/2. After replacing the ECU you
should have had a cycle test performed with the SD/2. Especially if
other functions in the A/C system are not working correctly. Not
everything is plug and play. Is the fan stuck on high?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I recently purchased a
97 355 Spider with 19,000 miles. I have seen several articles on the
"slow Down Light issues" as that is my situation. The light blinked on
and off several times after I took ownership then went off. Recently it
came on again. I have a tubi exhaust as some articles indicate the "slow
Down Light" is associated with the cat converter--Could this be related
to the Tubi exhaust I have?
Ron C
A. These cat converter modules are poor and prone to failure. They
sell for over $400 and when they get old they crack allowing moisture to
trigger a slow Down Light indicating a false temperature problem in the
exhaust. A test with a SD/2 or swapping the cat converter modules from
side to side and see if the light moves helps identifya bad module. You
could shoot the each exhaust with a temp gun as well. Start comparing
temps from side to side as the engine warms up. 50* F difference from
one side to the other is ok. You can check your WSM for operating temps.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. How do you diconnect
the tire pressure sensors on my 2004 575? I have checked and tried to
reset them according to the manual to no avail. I want to save the 2
hour trip to a dealer.
Mike
A. 2004 575 TPMS sensors can only be turned off with SD/2. Even then
the light will turn on when you start the car and then turn off. Did you
up the air in the tires to 60 psi for one hour then let the air out to
36 psi, reset calibrate and drive the car for 15 miles. Then check the
pressures.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am renewing most of
the fuel system components in my 1983 308 QV GTSi. I am studying many
sources for helpful hints and knowledge on the K-Jetronic system. I was
wondering what your experience tells you about the best way to
verify/adjust the fuel mixture. As the Bosch fuel distributor and WUR
are replaced, there is a possibility that this will be required. I am
prepared with a CIS gauge to measure system, control, and retention
pressures. Is a Lambda sensor at the sniff tubes the way to check
mixture? If so, is it a reasonable project for a do-it-yourselfer who
is willing to spend some money on equipment? What equipment would you
recommend?
Art Kimmel
A. To set up the CIS you need to have a gas annalizer. You set the CO
and HC. There is a emissions plate on the right side of the [could be
left] of the engine bay. It doesn't pay to buy one of these as they are 3
to 5 thousand dollars. You don't need it often. Saluti.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1990 Mondial T
coupe. Lately, it won't hold a smooth idle, stalls at every stop. It
spews out brown smoke on accelaration and generally the engine is not
smooth while crusing, as if it's misfiring, kind of a lurching motion.
Shop told me it would take 10 hours of labor just to diagnose and
recommended I add fuel injector cleaner, hasn't helped.
Cam Smart
A. Take the " T " to someone that knows the car. And let us know who
the rip off is. I will guess if the injectors are not dirty that an
ignition problem would be my next check.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I picked up a spare
tire with the mounting brackets for a 1995 F355. I'm looking for a
picture or a diagram of how this mounts in along with the leather case
that holds the jack & lug wrench.
Bob Shapiro
A. Sorry, but we have never seen one or how it mounts. Saluti.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I recently bought a 96
355 berlinetta. the car runs well, but just 1 problem/doubt on it. The
car has a tubi exhaust that works well, but the "slow down" lights that
are suposed to light for a second when you turn on the key, did not
light. Is this ok, or is it normal after mounting a tubi exhaust?.
John Pino Redford
A. The bulbs probably have been removed or something like that. It is a
test of the system when you turn on the key. Check the bulbs and dash
wireing.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am trying to locate
me Cat TEMP ECU's on my 98 550. I called Ferrari of Denver and to my
suprise, they won't help me since i didn't buy from them. I would avoid
them. Let me now ASAP please..
Brad
A. The 550 temp ECUs for cats are on the fire wall. There are 2, one
on each side. The thermal coupling is a long ancillery. Buy a WSM on
disc from T rutlands or maybe free on a chat site.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1996 f355
spider with 47K miles. runs perfect with my new fabspeed headers.(stock
headers failed) Q 1...should I expect valve guide problems or am I safe
at this point? Q2 ..I have developed a leak which looks to be gear oil.
Where could it be coming from? Thanks for your help.
JP Gallion
A. A 355 with 47k miles shouldn't expect valve problems. But one might
say yes because of the header replacemnet. I think they all will need
rebuilds beause they are for the most part, driven hard and the oil
seems to be changed once a year. So on a wear point of view I come to my
belief. About the gear oil leak, I would look to see if it is comimg
from the inspection grill under the bellhousing. tripple seals could be
leaking. If the leak is slight and the clutch not new I would just drive
the car. Heck this way maybe you could do the job at a latter date. A
shop will only want to sell you a clutch, disc, throw-out bearing etc.
Always ask to see your used parts before you pay. Ask to use a person
who has done the job before. Saluti.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1984 308QV
GTSi. I've replaced the plugs about two weeks ago because of misfiring.
The car ran great there-after and no misfiring. Problem solved, right!
Today, I had a ½ a tank of gas so I filled up with Shell 93. Coming home
after about 12 miles of driving, I noticed a sudden misfire and then
once I arrived in my garage she stalls. I couldn't get the car
restarted, she would turn over but that’s about it. I went out a few
hours later and check all my wires. I noticed one wire not in all the
way so I pushed it down. Tried again and she started right up. I let the
car run a bit but the smell of the exhaust was so bad and it started to
burn my eyes. Any suggestion?? One more thing when it’s warm out, (this
happened a few times) the car would just cut out. I‘ll be doing 70MPH
and down she goes, radio and all. I would wait a few minutes, then the
car would start but other times I would wait a half hour or more. What
could cause this? As of this morning, the battery light came on. It
stays on in idle but I give it some revs it shuts off?? I appreciate
your help.
Peter Costa
A. This 308 needs to get to the shop. I would look at the battery
lines and closely inspect the fuse box specially the battery feed. I'm
not sure if you have a secondary problem in the engine and it is running
on one bank.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Where is the air intake sensor located exacly on my 1984 308 QV
Tom Miller
A. The 308qv has CIS and the only air sensor is the air sensor plate.
You need a work shop mmanual and need to read up. Or better get a
Bosche technical book that explains the CIS system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. My 2001 Ferrari 360 had
a dead battery. I tried to jump start etc. I bought a new onem now the
temp guage is reading hot when it is not hot. It moved when I was
trying to start the car. The needle points to hot 200+ even when I start
it. How can I get the needle on the guage to go back to the original
spot so it reeds right. Thanks.
Gene Lorenzetti
A. You should take the car to the dealership. You will need to use a
sd/2 to reset the dash. You could try to disconnect the dash cluster,
but is not likly to reset the dash, but worth the try.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 97 456 GTA,
About 4 days after the disc pads were changed the car lost power assist
to the brakes. When I first start the car the Hydroboost pump runs for
about 30 seconds then stops. If I restart the car the pump wont run
again, unless I leave it for a day or so. The brake pedal is hard and
takes quiet a bit of effort to pull up. I now haven't driven it for more
than 12 months. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Kieran
A. You should take the car back to the shop. asap. It sounds like air
in the lines, but I am not sure. What type brakes system do you have?
Do you own a Workshop Manual? How where the pads replaced, did you push
the cylinders back in their bores or did you open the bleeder first? I
now use a pressure bottle to bleed the brakes on Ferrari and Maserati.
It works much faster. Of course it cost about $200 to get the adaptor
and tank. Use good new brake fluid. Best of luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1986 328 GTS
with a bad hesitation on accel or whenever you depress the gas pedal. I
already replaced the fuel pump, checked the ignition wires, caps and
rotors everything seems to check out ok. I also puchased a repair manual
for it from italy but I just can't seem to pinpoint the problem.
Thanks.
Marc Robinson
A. You need to check the cam timing - NOT easy to do if you never did
it before. I bet you are running on 4 cylinders. Check the spark at
each bank. You can also feel the headers get hot at the exhaust port.
They get hot fast and stay cold if they don't fire.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. While driving my 1988
Testarossa the battery warning light started to flash but it is now
staying on permanently. Is this likely to be the alternator and how is
it removed?
Ian Hawley
A. You need to get this car to the shop before it fails on the
expressway. Check the belt, if its making noise or if it is missing,
replace it. Then check the battery and alternator or it could be wiring.
You need to get it sorted out. The alternator in this car is better
repaired by a Ferrari shop that knows the testarossa. Forza .
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a ferrari 360
with f1 gear 2003 model, after the car is warm and while driving the
gear goes back to neutral, only when the car is warm, please advise what
can be done and what is the reason taking into consideration that we
don't have a Ferrari dealer in Jordan. Thanks and regards.
Husam Samandar
A. The car needs to been put on a SD/2 and checked. Clutch wear,
clutch sensor, hydralic pressure, brake switch may be the problem. I
could not pin it down without reading errors and parameters. It could be
as bad a a transmission control unit. I am only giving possible
answers, in return please let us know what you find and if you have any
needs for Ferrari in New York, please refer then to me at Wide World of
Cars Ferrari/Maserati. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a '90 mondial T.
When the car is moving I cannot switch to 2nd or 4th gear. Only when the
car is standing it is possible to reach them. This is independent of
oil temperature. Clutch and wire rope(?) connecting the gear stick to
the gearbox has been changed. Any idea?
Olaf Rotzschke
A. I would make sure the the shift linkage is correct. The shifter
should engage each gear and not be up against the shift gate. Try
jacking the rear of the car and then shift. I would like to rule out
that the clutch is dragging.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1985 Mondial
Cabriolet QV. It is perfectly serviced. The throttle is sticking when I
cold start and will rev directly relative to my initial pedal pressure
without backing down. I can feel the throttle stiffness at the pedal. I
also watched the throttle at the engine move slowly back to idle. It
seems free if I move it manually. I can't tell if it is hanging up
because of old grease or the cable. The problem disappears as soon as
the car warms up. What is the likelyhood that a cable problem would
disappear when the car is warmed up or is this more likely a matter of
cleaning and relubricating the throttle at the engine?
Richard Z
A. If the gas pedal is stickin and the problem goes away when the
enginge is warm. I would look at the throttle body spring and service
it. I also would check the throttle bore for coking. This would also
cause your problem. Let us know what you find. forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have an 1986 328GTS
Euro Model. I am replacing the gaskets on the oil and gearbox due to a
leak. I have removed the shifting shaft between the 2 sumps. However, I
am still having trouble getting the oil pan off, it moves down about
1/2" then sticks on something. Is there anything else that needs to be
removed? Note: This early model 328 has the old style of oil pan, like
the 308 (with hex drain in the middle).
Devin Bean
A. You need to remove the dip stick tube and its base. There is a
short tube that will come out and the pan can be lowered. I would also
remove the temperature sensor next to it as it may get in the way.
Remove the engine mount bolts. Move the engine to the side enough to
remove the shift shaft. Make marks, because you want things to go back
where they came from. If not you will be paying for the mistake you
caused.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I own a Ferrari 456 GT
1994. Only 8.200 kilometers. I am the second owner. I have a problem
with the engine temperature as follow; the car can run during 15 to 25
minutes at 140 to 180 km/hour at 90 to 100 ºC engine temperature. After
this time the temperature will be increased up to 115-120ºC even running
the car at 200 - 240 km/hour for few seconds and then going back to
140-170km/hour. When running the car in the city at normal speed of 50
to 80 km/hour the temperature will reach 125ºC after 15 to 20 minutes
and then up to 130ºC and I stop the car. The fans are running well and
the refrigerant level is also ok. What could be the problem? There is
any improvement for the cooling system of the 456gt? Any suggestions or
comments will ber very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Loreto Alfidi Crowther
A. Put the car in second gear so you don't run into more problems. 2nd gear . caio
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have Ferrari F1 355
GTS, 1995 in Belo Horizonte/Brazil. The ferrari's dealer in Sao Paulo is
so far away from my home. I have the following problem. "Suspension
Malfunction Warning Light"(amber)
The warning light suspension malfuction on the instrument panel comes
on while, and it doesn't switch off whem the car is moving. I suppose I
need to buy a used one or a brain new, Ferrari SD1 fault diagnostics
tester and the specific cable, to indicate the problem of the suspension
sistem? How can I buy one of these? Do you have another sugestion to
repair my suspension problems? Thank you very much.
Marcus Trivellato
A. You cannot find a SD/1 and you cannot get one repaired. SD/2 is
$15k and up. SD/3 starts abit more. The new Ferrari scan tool is called
the DEIS. It is a laptop and is hooked up to FNA. You do not need a
scan tool for the suspension light, well most likely not. You probaly
have a bad motor atop of one of the units. It is the red cynlinder on
top of the shock. It is probaly one of the rear units. Check the
connects. You can drive the car with the liight on. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1984 308gts
quatrovalve and I need instructions on how to change my clutch. The
repair manual is not helpful. Thanks.
Ray Ziegler
A. To remove the clutch you set the car on a lift, remove the l/r
tire, inner fender, transfer cover, various hoses, lines and wiring,
cable [if you don't understand the work shop manual how will you know
how to adjust the linkage properly so that you don't fry that new 1700
dollar clutch package] bellhousing [do you have the correct ring nut
socket to remove the lay shaft nut?] then you'll need to remove the
bearing etc to pull the bell hosing away from the clutch pack. The
bellhousing comes out of the wheel well tightly and has the t/o bearing
on it, the input and 2 O-rings that need a small amount of silicone so
that the lube doesn't leak. This is a good time to remove flywheel [dont
break the dowels, if you try to remove them]. Now decide if you need to
change that old dried out crank seal. Well there you go now you can put
it back together and have fun driving your ferrari. I think flat rate
pays maybe 8 hours. Sometime you can do it in 4 to 5 if you know what
you are doing, and have all the shop equipment. You could call me if you
need it done as well .
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1988
Testarossa. The positive battery cable goes to the starting
system/altenator and up front splits into 2 leads that feed the left and
right fuse block. Is there a physical junction that joins the cable
from the battery to the two cables that feed the fuse block? I have no
continuity from the battery post to the 2 fuse block power cables.
George Linder
A. Make sure there is no kill switch. If you are checking continutity
and have none then you need to just start following the battery lead and
look for the problem. I would get a wire diagram to help follow the
cables. Make sure you have a good ground connection.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2003 360 F1
with 10K miles on it and after the car warms up it often slips gears
when shifting. From 2nd it will go to 5th or 6th instead of third. Or
it will go into neutral from first, which is often what happens if I put
it in automatic mode. It only does this while changing gears, not
while it is in gear. I am told that the previous owner topped off the
ATF with 75/90 gear lube. Could that be the problem and is there a way
to drain or siphon off the fluid to replace it? Either way, which ATF
fluid can I use for it? The manual says Shell Donax TX but I can't find
that anywhere. Thanks for the help!
C. Corrente
A. If the he toped off the F1 with 75/90 you have a problem. The
gearbox itself uses 75/90. The F1 uses atf donex. Either way take the
car to someone with a SD2 or 3 computer to diagnose the problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I own an '83 Mondial,
car has about 45k miles. The transmision is stiff to shift into 2nd gear
until the trans is really warmed up. Is this a syncro issue or is there
a transmission fluid that will help this. you mentioned "Lubrication
Engineers" as a fluid source, which gear oil specifically would you use?
Thanks.
Allen Brown
A. Red Line makes the 75/90 ns that helps with shifting issues. Most
Ferraris have a 2nd gear that likes to be warmed up before it is smooth.
You can always just shift to 3rd when the car is warming up. There
are old school guys that still use the Castrol/Quaker State GL5
conventional stuff in cars up north. Talk about warming the car up.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I currently own an '83
Mondial and enjoy it a lot. Do the work myself. If I want to move to a
different car, either a 308 or Testa Rosa, I am interested in
reliability and can I fit. I am 6'3" and do fine in the Mondial. All the
308s I have sat in or driven were tight, is there a fix? Is the Testa
Rosa a lot more maintance or cost for parts? Thanks.
Allen Brown
A. The 308 will most likely be a problem getting in and out of with
your height. Maintenance on the 308 is about the same [less] as a
Mondial. The TR will fit you but maintenance will be 2-3 thousand more
if you send it out. I would go for a 512 TR or a 512M. A 355 may work
better. You may need a F1 [paddle shift] if your legs are that long.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. This problem concerns a
2003 360 Modena with an F1 style gearbox. The problem occurs as soon as
the brake pedal is depressed the engine controls put the car into a
safe mode and engine revolutions are limited. The car does not have any
malfunction indicator lamps lit and seems to be running fine
otherwise.If the brake light switch is disconnected you can rev to
redline. Any help would be appreciated.
Giannis Charalampous
A. I would take the car to Eddie in Cyprus. He has all the SD tools.
It would be nice if it is only a bad brake light switch, but it may be
something like a shaft speed sensor. I can,t say without reading data
stream from the sd/2.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1988.5 328
GTS. When I come to a hard stop at traffic lights or stop signs the revs
will sometimes dip below idle speed causing the car to stall. I can
just watch the needle sometimes dip too low and the car will have
trouble regaining idle speed or will just stop running. Occasionally but
not always it will require a few extra cranks of the starter to restart
after this. The car cold starts up right away. I'm thinking vacuum leak
or some fuel pressure issue but the car otherwise runs great. An
inconvenience and embarrassing too. Thanks.
Marc
A. I would raise the idle 100 RPM. If the problem comtinues it,s time to have a minor tune up.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 90 testorssa
and someone fried one of the wires to the switch. Where could I find a
diagram to fix this problem. Thanks.
Chris Risden
A. You can call John at T Rutlands and buy a Work Shop Manual or go on line to ferrarichat.com.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2003 ferrari
360 and am considering a tubi exhaust AND high flow cats. what kind of
performance gain, if any, can I reasonably expect? Will the setup
likely pass emissions? Tubi exhaust sounds wonderful by itself, will
the new cats change the resonance? Thanks.
J. Thompson
A. The Tubi exhasut sounds great. There may be a change in the exhaust
with the hi-flow cats but i'm not sure you can tell. The same thing
with the performance. Unless you are timing the car I don't know you can
tell the difference. Everyone will be able to hear the sound, and
people behind you will hear it even more. Emissions should be no
problem. You are replacing the cats with cats. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 80 308 gts
that is not running quite right, there is a sensor on the coolant res.
tank that was disconnected. If I reconnected while running she stalls or
if I connect while off will not idle at start up. what is this sensor.
also charging system is not outputting alot of voltage. the alternator
was recently reuilt but she is still only outputting 13 volts any ideas.
Thanks.
Dan Marcos
A. The sensor is the collant temp for fast idle. You should talk to a shop with the problems You have.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1994 456 gt
that appears to be overheating. I can't find a coolant leak anywhere.
When I fill the expansion bottle it boils over. My question is what is
the procedure for bleeding the system? Hope you can help.
Kevin
A. The 456 owner with a cooling problem. You need a manual first. The
water pump is driven by v belt and I think the car has 2 thermostats.
They must be installed or the car will overheat. If you read the book
You can decide to fix it yourself or take it to a repair shop.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I purchased low-mileage
1989 328 GTS about three months ago. It seems to run great, but
recently when it gets warm, the throttle seems to stick between 2000 and
3000 RPM. If I rev the engine, the idle will come down, though usually
not down to the 700 RPM where it used to be. I've tried to use
carburetor cleaner on the cable, springs, and fittings,etc., but this
has only a temporary fix at best. I would appreciate any help.
Jean-Marc Belanger
A. I would say to check the throttle pedal. Make sure that the carpet
does not restrict the pedal. Other than that you should have the fuel
system checked by someone familar with ferrari.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I own an 1982 Mondial 8
with 35,500 on it. When the car starts up, the orange light on speedo
gauge lights up (high speed idle light/cold engine). Once engine is
warmed up as it states in owners manual, it shuts off. Problem that is
happening, is that the motor is overheating. When I shut the engine off
and check, the coolant is coming out of the overflow valve at the back
of car. All hoses are hot as I think they should be, but when I check
the radiator hose up front, the hose is cold and so is the radiator.
The coolant is topped up in the engine reservoir area, the gauges are
fine with no warnings? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again in advance.
Jean-Marc Belanger
A. I would check the bleeder first. You know, just bleed the system to
start. Fill the tank, crack the bolt on the thermostat housing then
tighten. Open the radiator screw till fluid comes out, then close it.
Start and run the car with temp levels on hot inside the car. Keep
cracking the radiatior screw quickly to see if any air comes out. As the
car gets hot pressure will build at this screw. You might search a chat
site for a more detailed version. If that does not solve the problem,
check the thermostat, It may be sticking or broken.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. My ferrari 1959 V12 has
been sitting for a year - how do I prime the carburetors? Would be
grateful for advice before setting fire to either myself or the car!
Thanks.
Sam
A. You did not say what model you have. I cannot remember but I think
you have a mechanical fuel pump. You can try to fill the carb bowls
through the vent but if the carbs were empty its a good chance the check
valve will stick and then the pumps will just pump fuel into the
throttle bores. You'll have to watch when the car starts. Keep a halon
fire extinguisher around. I guess you could try to fill the fuel line
also. I think I would remove the plugs and spin the engine around and
get some oil pressure at which point the carbs should be primed. You can
check spark early as well. Its not uncommon to have a set of points act
poorly and then you have another problem that needs to be corected
first. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am having a problem
with the slow down light on my 2001 550. Dealer is not finding any
fault codes and has replaced ECU and Thermal coupling. I have 10,000
miles on the car. Could one or both of the catalytic converters need to
be replaced. What causes exessive heat in the converters? The car has
been back to the dealer 3 times and this is getting old. Since the
dealer is working on this on their dime, I am not sure that I am getting
the whole story. I love everthing else about the car and really want
to sort this out.
Allen Buguess
A. I do not know the full story but if there are NO codes or FAULTS
and the parts have been replaced, I would have to suspect a batch of bad
parts or the wiring to the motronics or the 'mo' itself. The car can be
shot with a heat gun. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1998 Ferrari
550 Maranello. I need to get to the fuel pumps. Will removing the panel
on the front wall of trunk give me access to the pumps? I have removed
all the 10mm bolts from panel and it still seems to be held somehow,
perhaps glued? Very grateful for any help you can provide. Thanks.
Mark Keller
A. Look for hidden hardware, but it is not uncommon to find a panel that sticks because it has never been apart.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. The brakes on my 1978
308 lock up after driving for a while. I've been told the vacuum
booster is bad, does this make sense? I am removing it and the master
for a rebuild. I've removed the nuts holding the booster but it seems
to hit the recess in the well so I can't remove it. Thoughts? Thanks.
Bob Levenduski
A. To remove the booster, I would remove the master cylinder first.
You may need to loosen other nuts to get every thing out. Did anyone
check to see if a caliper was bad? I use White Post Resto in Va. for
rebuilding. Ask what they are replacing and what they are reusing.
Don't forget to use normal shop procedures. Brake fluid can make a mess
of things. Be very careful with the plastic reservoir.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 328 GTS.
There is no cool air coming out with the air conditioning on. Where do I
find the access port to recharge the A/C. Where is it located on the
car? Thank you.
Robert Brody
A. Remove the spare tire and the surround, the fittings should be
visible. Check to see if there are any fittings on the compressor.
Someone may have retro fitted the system already. Retro fittings have
colored caps most of the time and are the quick release type [no
external threads]. You should have a work shop manual.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 97 355. I have a
tapping/knocking noise that appears to be coming from the flywheel
area. the car makes the noise with the clutch pedal up or down, moving
or stationary. The only time the noise is not there is when the clutch
is biting leading me to think its related to the flywheel area. as soon
as the clutch is either fully engaged or fully disengaged the noise
returns. Could this be related to lack of grease in the flywheel even
though i can't see any signs of the grease having come out. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Miles Pingstone
A. Yes the noise most likely is the flywheel. Take the car to the shop and let us know what they find.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 360 spider
2002. The battery went dead and now the airbag light is on. Is there
anyway of resetting it without taking it to the dealer 150 miles away
you!
Dennis
A. The air bag light can only be reset by the sd/2. Also there are a
limited number of times the bag may be reset. Do you trickle chage your
battery? Do you turn the battery off? The dealership should scan the
whole car for the price of resetting the airbag light. They can print
errors or lack of them. I always ask for a printout, you should too. I
think John Tyrell at IFS or boston motorcars Ken Maccay. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2002 F1 360
spider, last time I was out driving (in traffic jam) the engine got
overheated (water temp) and the gear went to N and warning light for
engine hood came on, I had to pull over for 20-30 min. A friend of mine
told me that this could happend when the clutch needed replace (car has
34k and one earlier clutch replace). Any idea ? Thank you!
Eric
A. The car will enter neutral if the engine hood opens. Read your
owners book for more sugguestions. I cannot guess about the cooling
problems. Did the fans come on? Did the oil temp go up? Is there water
in the system? Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Hi, I drove with my F.
308 QV 85 and the engine suddenly stopped. When I start again, engine
revolves but doesn´t start. After checking, I found, there is no spark
on the spark plugs. On the input of ingnition coils is electric current
but on the output no more.
All sensors (TDC and Speed engine) should be o. k. Electric current is
also on the ignition. Can you write, where can be problem? Or how can I
read from diagnostic socket? Thank you!
Martin
A. You should take the car to a shop at this point.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1992 512 TR,
19000 miles, the clutch is hard to push and also must be pushed all the
way down to shift. Is there any adj. or advise you can give to ease this
problem? Thank you for any info you can furnish.
Roger Donovan
A. You can try an adjustment. You are better off taking the car to a
shop that knows Ferrari's and this type of clutch. It should not be that
hard to push. You could try to lube the linkage if you have a lift. If
the clutch is replaced and not done correctly, you will wish you had
brought the car to a Ferrari shop.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I need to change the
upper hydraulic rams on my f355 spider top. I guess my hydraulic oil
tank was very low and it caused the rams to dry up. The larger rams are
fine but the smaller upper ramns are not. I found this rams for 1/2
the price and I want to install my self. Any idea? Thanks.
Eitan Borochov
A. You can install the rams but without the sd/1,2,3 to configure the system you'll hit a block. They are not plug and play.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am the second owner
of an '85 308 QV. Like a few of the members, I too have had some recent
timing/ignition issues. The car has been starting poorly over the last
6 weeks with the smell of gas after shutting down. It has taken a few
pumps of the gas pedal to start what otherwise has been a very strong
car. This past weekend after driving it, the car backfired in my garage
and stalled. When I attmepted to start it up again a few days later,
it is now running very poorly and generating almost no power. I have
yet to run any compression tests to see what each cylinder is doing, but
I have pulled all the plugs and connectors to include both distr. caps
w/o anything being overly ugly. What I did notice however, is that the
front (exposed) bank of plugs are all wet w/a strong gas smell. Does
this sound like a timing issue, i.e. are these valves stuck open/out of
timing? Also, and this may seem novice, but is this an interferrance
engine? I don't want to bend anything in my periodic start-ups as I
attempt to diagnose this problem. Besides taking this to Orlando, is
there anyone closer toJacksonville who works on these cars? Thanks.
Chris Hejmanowski
A. All Ferraris are interference motors, these answers will form a
basic understanding. The bank you can see is the 5-8 bank, left side
bank. Think of the things like you where sitting behind the wheel of the
car. Picture the engine as if it were mounted front to rear. The front
by the way is the side with the belts. Number one is closest to the
belts [witch is the right side of the car] and goes 2, 3, and 4 in
sequence, to the left side of the car. The right side is also the side
with the bell housing, clutch, ignition coils etc. The right side also
has the flywheel reference marks and they are located on the flywheel,
which is accessible under a small trapezoidal cover, under the oil
filter. Top dead center is marked PM 1-4. The firing order is 1-3-4-2.
If you were to look at the motor standing on the right side of the
motor, you would be facing the bell housing and from there bank 1-4
would be on your right and bank 5-8 would be on your left. Now if you
picture yourself standing over the 5-8 bank, You have the same layout as
the 1-4 bank. The plugs as you say are all wet on 5-8 and ok on 1-4.
Check for spark at the cols. You can see what coil feeds the 2 banks.
Check spark on each bank. If you have spark at the coil then the problem
is probly the wires, cap rotor or extensions. If no spark at the one
coil there a problem in the ignition. Pickup, ECU or wiring etc. There
is a junction box under the left side wheel well that feeds the engine.
If you think that the engine has broken a timing belt or skipped a tooth
then it should be checked.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. 1972 dino 246GT what setting should the ignition timing be set at at idle and total mechanical what RPM.
Ray Ouellette
A. Static ignition timing is 6 degrees btdc. Total advance is 35 degrees.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Another Speedo issue. I
have a 1990 testarossa which when the ignition is turned on(not started
or started)the odometer counts on at about a mile a minute. The speedo
itself has now stopped working-needle at rest. Cant tell you if they
happened at the same time. Is it likely to be the speedometer? Thanks.
Stu Martin
A. I have not had this problem before. I have heard about it though. I
saw something on a chat site once. I would disconnect the speedo
sensor at the gear box to start.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I just bought a 1982
400i 5 speed, the car has been parked for two years, it shows 42,000
miles, the engine smokes a lot. Do you think it could be the valve seals
or can be something else? Where I can find parts? Thanks.
Eduardo Aguilera
A. A parts source in the US may be T Rutlands, ask for John. If the
car sat for 2 years it could use a good internal cleaning the fuel
system is probably worse, so look at servicing it as wellfor varnish and
dirt. Some products help to soften seals. I am assuming that the
valves/chains have been checked. When you call T Rutlands ask about a
work shop manual.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. What is the resistance on distributor condenser for a 1976 308 GTB single distributor? Thanks.
Mazen Stieh
A. Condensers are not measured by resistance. They are capacitors.
Condensers absorb the voltage spike caused by the points movement. They
generally do not go bad. Their rating is on the shell. Sounds like you
need to run the distributor on a distributor machine if you want to do
the job completely.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. We have a 2004 F360 at
our shop and we have to drain some oil out of the engine because the
customer over filled it. We were going to suck out some of the oil but
it's a dry sump and we can't run it if it's over full. We cannot get it
onto our drive-on hoist without running it. We know nothing about this
car and we'd like to know how to bring the oil level down without
damaging anything.
Toby Hamilton
A. To drian some oil you would jack the car up and remove the sump plug. The plug location should be in the owners manual.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 360 F1. Love
everything about the car except the soft rubber finish on the ash tray
door handles ect. Is there someone who refinishes these parts or any
other fix. Also my battery died, now my air bag light will not go out?
Thanks.
Luis
A. I now refinish the sticky parts. I use a wrinkle finish paint or
leave the parts stripped. You can search the chat sites such as
ferrarichat.com for the different methods owners have used.
If the air bag light is on you are going to need a systema diagnosi 2
or newer to reset it. Sounds like the battery may have had a problem at
some point. Cheers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1998 355 F1
Spider and changed the clutch 3 months ago. The clutch has about 800
miles on it or less. Now my clutch was slowly beginning to slip till it
just gave out completely and left me stranded. If I put it in first I
have to rev it to 9000 in order for it to move an inch. Why did this
clutch burn out so fast? Thanks.
Luis
A. I would take it back to the repair shop ASAP. Please tell use who
this was. It could be a flywheel issue or a software setup issue. Then
again it could be just a mistake or defective part. Not all Ferrari
techs are equipted with a systema diagnosi machine. I do not have faith
in any other tool to set up the clutch and F1 system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2002 575. I
have owned the car for approximately 3 months. When I bought the car I
put new tires on it. As I drive it, I notice the warning light comes on
indicating that the tire pressure monitoring gauge is not
active/calibrating. My question is how do you reset this gauge? Thanks.
John Dickey
A. Did you follow the instructions in the owners manual to reset the
system after the tires were installed? If so check the pressures and
make sure they are the same. It is possible that a wheel sensor was
damaged during replacement of the tires. A technician can test the
sensors with the sd/2.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 308QV. Can
the valves be checked and adjusted with the engine in the car? Same
question about changing the cam seals. Thank you.
Tony Buono
A. The Cams and seals can be changed with the engine in the car. I
prefer to remove the cams and replace the seals and O rings rather than
trying to change them with the cams just loosened. I suggest that you
check the clearances first. Carefully record the settings and valve
number. Remove the cams and fit the new seals and O rings. Change the
valve pucks on the valves that need ajustment and then refit the cams.
Be careful to correctly index the cams.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I own a 1985 308 QV
Euro. All services are current and runs great. If the car is hot, you
have to wait about 10-15 minutes to restart. Cold start fires up first
time. Is this a fuel pump or ingnition coil issue. How do you diagnose
without just starting to replace expensive parts. Thank you
Ken Esposito
A. For a car that needs to sit for 10 minutes I suspect a fuel
problem but I have replaced pick-up sensors before. It is difficult to
check the fuel system without the proper tools. Very dangerous also
because of the high fuel pressures. You could check the secondary side
of the ignition by checking for quality spark. When were the cars wires
or extensions serviced? I don't know where you are located but a call to
Justin or Kevin @845-425-2600 Wide World of Cars. They work on old
cars as well as the new ones.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1980 308 GTS,
the cam belts were changed 2 years ago and done 1700 miles. Do they need
doing again? Also, how do you change the back spark plugs they look a
little awkward? Which plugs should I use?
Denis Askham
A. Here we use a 5 year belt change schedule. You should check with a
shop in the UK to see what schedule you should use. Changing the rear
plugs are tuf the first time but it can be done. I use NGK plugs here. I
would check with another car owner to see what they are using. Check
the plug extensions to make sure they are not bad. Cheers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2001 360
Modena. The complete climate controll system is in-op. I have talked
with a Chigago dealer who has sent me the relay's that connect to the
system, however, this did not fix the problem. I am searching for some
advice or would like to locate a wiring diagram.
Any ideas would be helpful.
John Hoekstra
A. You can buy a 360 CD set and they have the wiring diagram and info
about the a/c system. I can only guess that the fuses have been checked
and that the blower motor works.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a '85 308
(4-valve) which runs perfectly, but upon starting, has a prominent
tapping sound in engine directly behind passenger's location. As car
warms up @ idle (2 minutes), it gradually declines & becomes silent
till the next cold start. I suspected a tight guide-to-valve fit, so
after a drive & cool-down, I go out & restart engine for abt. 15
seconds. If I use that procedure, then no noise ever after sitting.
Even over the winter! Do you think this is a tight fit, or more likely a
slightly bent valve? I am not the first owner, so I can't comment of
previous use. Thanks very much!
Rusty
A. You cannot hear a tight valve guide. It sounds like a exhaust tic.
Maybe it is a loose vale adjustment. You could start by asking when the
car was serviced [how and what is the oil]. Is the noise new, did you
get the car with the noise etc. You might be able to listen to the noise
with a piece of hose or stethoscope.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I recently purchased an
85 Testarossa with 26,000 miles. I have a very slight oil drip once
the oil is warm. It is on the left bank from the rear of the engine at
the transition from the cam housing and the "distributor" housing. What
type of seal is located here and what is the best way to replace it
(engine removal?)? Thanks for your time and considerations.
Jon Douglas
A. This leak can be repaired in the car. A call to t-rutlands or
riacambia america for the correct gasket and any other parts is all
you'll need. Before you start check to see if the nuts, bolts or studs
are stripped. It pays to use the correct part/gasket, right.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have 1999 360 and my
o2 sensors are reading NOT READY by the Ma. State inspection station.
Everyone is telling me to drive the car and it will automatically reset
itself but it is not happening. I have driven 500+ miles and nothing.
Is there a trick to getting this system to get ready for testing? Is
there a drive cycle? Thank you.
Greg Martucci
A. There is a drive cycle. I cannot give you a location to read up on
it, sorry. The car must be driven at certain speeds for a time, allowed
to coast, part throttle excelleration etc. If you don't do it right, you
will not complete the readiness monitors and that will keep you from
getting a green light at DMV. Sorry I don't have more info for you.
Maybe a search on obd2, readiness monitors. Forza. The car may also
have a problem with it not entering closed loop and that would keep the
system from testing the o2 sensors. Car sounds like it needs to be put
on a scanner and checked. Let us know what you find out.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have just bought a US
308 GTB 1977 and done 1,100 miles in the last 4 days. Everything works
great. One thing that wories me, is the oil pressure gauge shows 1/4 at
idle 1,000 rpm when the oil is warm, moves slightly higher when reving
to say 4-5,000 but after driving for an hour or so the red light comes
flicking first and then lights up. The needle does not fall though. I
usually stop the car, turn the ignition off and restart it, and the
problem goes away for another hour or so. Might be a problem with the
oil pressure sender? What should be the correct oil pressure at idle and
at 4-6.000 rpm? Thank you.
Harry Imirziadis
A. I would check the oil pressure with a gauge cold and then warm. I
would also replace the sender. Oil pressure specs are located in the wsm
or you might do a search on a chat site.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am replacing the head gaskets on my 3.2 Mondial. Can anyone tell me the torque settings and tightening procedures.
Edward L
A. You need a workshop manual to torque heads on a 3.2. They are
quatro valve heads and they used a torque to yield system, so you would
need literature, tool for torque angle and a special socket. Some things
you can get from Ricambia America or you might search other aftermarket
suppliers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I just bought a 1984 400I. What oil and transmission fluid should I use. Thanks.
Joey
A. If it has an automatic will use the Dextron atf. If it is a manual
I would try any 75/90 or if they prefer You can use the 75/90ns from
redline. I would use a good 20w50 oil in the engine.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Regarding A. Haas
educational article on oil, he notes a rule of 10 psi per 1000 rpms as a
standard pressure requirement. What if the auto manufacturer specifies a
different pressure, i.e., 50psi @3500rpm? How would this affect the
choice of oil viscosity chosen, if at all, for this engine under street
use? Thanks a lot.
Steve
A. It is rare that the manufacturer gives you a range. If they do, use
it. From my writings:
For the Maranello 575 Ferrari uses a pressure of 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM.
This is all you need to know. Match the oil grade with the temperature
of your oil as you drive it.
If you are racing the oil will be hotter and it may be that a thicker
grade is needed to achieve 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM.
For me, driving around town, a 20 grade oil will give me more than 75
PSI at 6,000 RPM so I can actually go thinner.
Also, whereas 10 PSI is needed, 10 - 15 PSI would be a good range. I
would lean a little close to the 15 PSI myself. If you had 45 PSI at
3,000 RPM and 90 PSI at 6,000 RPM you would be ideal in my thinking.
Hope you find this helpful,
Ali Haas
Q. I have a ferrari 400i
v12 injection 1980 that refuses to start when it is hot, do you think
there is a relay problem? When it is cold it fires first time. Thanks a
lot.
Barry Fenlon
A. This car has 2 pumps,filters, accumulators etc. Is the car
suffering from vapor lock, low pressure, or tune-up services. If the car
starts when it has a chance to cool, It is probably a fuel problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1986 328 gts I
have a mech looking at my problem he is more of a mercedes bmw mech but
has worked on Ferraris he says I have engine oil leaking into my gear
oil? I am a marine mech and figure its better to let someone familiar
with Ferraris than me trying and making it worse. I see a couple of you
guys are local to me would love to bring my car so you can take a look.
It started with typical let warm up 5 min before trying 2nd gear, but
now after driving awhile I sometimes lose 1st when I pull up to a light
have to shift into 2nd then back to 1st works most of the time
(linkage?) anyway I have had the car 6 mo. and don't think I ever want
to sell it. I may get divorced first. Would love to be able to keep it
if I could find someone to help me with it. Thanks for
any help.
Mike Peterson
A. Don't drive this car other than to have it fixed. You have seals
leaking but more importantly you have to have the linkage adjusted
properly as well - this is done while the oil/gear fluid pans are off.
Not too expensive. Please call me.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a problem with a
2001 360 spider. The temp is high and the fan will not come on even if
the a/c is on. Where can I find tech info on the wiring diagram and the
location of the thermo switch that controls the fans. What else could be
the problem? Where could I get a factory work shop manuel? Thanks.
Errol Clarke
A. I recommend to check the fuses and you can find their location in
the owners manual. As far as buying manuals, the manuals are now on
disc and you should check one of the chat sites or ebay. You should
make sure you are getting a complete set. Speak with another owner of
the discs. Most are unauthorized copies.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 92 348TB with 23K miles on it. What oil do you recommend?
Jeff White
A. Your owners manual calls for a 10W-40 oil. I suggest you read the
artical "Introduction to Motor Oil" by Ali Haas in the Education
section. It will help you decide what is best for you.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. My 82 308 GTSi idles at
3000 RPM when it starts cold. It will stay at this RPM until it warms (
about 3 to 5 minutes later). There are some missing vacuum lines
between the thermally operated vacuum valve on the header tank and the
electrically operated valve that sits on the intake manifold. I can
replace them but am not sure about the routing of the hoses. My ignition
has been replaced by two MSD's set up for four cyl. each. One of the
hoses that comes off of the Air Box looks like it was supposed to have
been linked to the old computers in the trunk area ( where they used to
be)Was there a solenoid that controlled vacuum mounted on one of the
ignition computers? I'm trying to correct the portion of the cold start
system that controlls idle when it is cold. It seems to be opening the
throttle way too much when starting cold. I have searched the internet
looking for a layout of those vacuumm lines and cannot find anything.
Can you help me on this? It's heartbreaking to start this car and stand
by helplessly while the engine screams while warming.
John Johnson
A. Since this car is in Texas I don't think a fast idle is necessary.
If you jumper the electric leads at the coolant tank you will keep the
cold start air valve from operating and this will keep the car from the
high idle you talk of. You need to maKe terminals and 3" piece of wire.
You can leave this jumper in place. It will still use the cold start
injector and the auxilary air valve will still operate. The vacuum hoses
you speak of located at the coolant tank are for egr operation. One
hose goes to an electrovalve and then to a vac source at the throttle
plate. The other hose from the coolant tank thermovalve goes to the egr
valve. The egr valve picks up gases from 5/8 exhaust pipe and delivers
them to the intake duct below the cis unit. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. My `80 308 has just had
a major service. Belts, valves, wires,& filters. Cats removed,
bypass pipes and Tubi exhaust installed. Runs really strong but is hard
starting when hot. Also seems to be running very rich as there is black
soot with a cold start. Engine does not smoke at all. What bothers me is
the soot that comes out with water vapor on a cold start.
Marty Roehner
A. It is running too rich. i.e.: soot! Take the car back to the shop that did the service, is the most polite thing to say.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 96 355 and
just did a major service my self. I installed a straight pipe with tubi
so I had to eliminate 2 o2 sensors. My engine light and slow down light
are on. Are these lights on becouse of o2 sensor? Can I bypass the o2
sensor?
Mike
A. Your new straight pipes should have a bung for the o2 sensors. They
are needed for the ECU to work properly. You knew enough to do your own
major service. I wonder if there also is anything else wrong. When did
the lights come on? Did You check and clear codes before you did the
service? Did You not get a connection correct? The check engine light
should have come on when the o2's did not send a signal. The car
probably thought it was running lean and kept adding fuel. Why attempt
this without knowing all the potential problems.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have just purchased a
Ferrari 348TS 1992. This car had previously had a £6000 service which
included a new starter motor and cambelt change, this car can start ten
times on the trot then park up and it won't start when you return. Power
is reaching the starter motor. We have changed it twice and the
battery. When the car will not start. If I put it into 5th gear and rock
the car back and forth, then turn the ignition, it will start. I am
hoping the yanks can help me on this problem as my mechanics in Spain
and the UK are scratching their heads.
Mark
A. I wonder if the same thing that I have written about so many times
and it's the solinoid wire not carring enough current to activate the
starter. See if putting 12 volts directly to the solinoid makes it
spin. Take a current draw test. Also check to see if the starter gear is
sticking engaged with the flywheel, since rocking the car in gear seems
to free it.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 456gta with
the interior climate control not working properly,fan blows even when in
stop position. Please can anyone help with a diagnosis. Thanks
Alan Hart
A. I would pull the fuse to the HVAC system and see if it still runs. Sounds like the HVAC module is bad.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. My friend has a 97 F355
Spyder that the convertable top won't open properly. It appears that
the 2 lower hydraulic cylinders (the bigger ones) are out of time. The
left side retracts all the way, but the right side was about 1/4 inch
from retracting all the way. We tried to bleed them but that made it
worse. Now they are 1 1/2 inches apart. We ran them through a few cycles
in attempt to retime, but no help. Is there a way to retime them?
Rob Long
A. I am sorry to say that it appears you need an SD 2 to reset the
the roof. Make sure the doors windows and most importantly the seats
are moving. I think you might want to run cycle the motor to see if you
have any more air in the system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2005 360
Spider which at this moment its been work in the dealer. The slow down
light still is coming even though they have already fix one of the coils
and replace both exhaust pyrometers. They are telling me now that they
did a leak down test with the car some warm and found a leak inside one
of the cylinders, #6. They are telling me that they will replace the
engine head from that side as they think its a leak on the valve guides
in that cylinder combustion chamber. Any body with a feedback like
this?, are there is any way in how to verify not only if there was a
valve guide problem but also a cylinder leak problem?
Franc Fons
A. A 2005 car should be on warranty. If they did a leakdown test they
should have found where the leak is (rings, valves, or guides, head
gasket, etc). We don't have any other info ie; was there work done on
the car or has the problem been there and gotten worse. I have not
heard of problems like this but one bad cyl could turn on the slow down
light. Forza .
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Can you over-rev the
1997 355-6 speed, and if so, can you damage valves etc. The engine has
19,000 miles on and maintained to the letter from ferrari. I am being
told that 2 cylinders are dead, on right bank, pass side. I would think a
fuel cut or ign limiter would be in place to prevent overreving. Thanks
in advance.
Chuck Poliszczuk
A. The car could hit the rev limiter and probably did in its life.
The problem more likely is; if you were to downshift at too high an RPM
you could OVER SPIN the engine and that is probably what happened. You
have more than valve issues at this point. You need to be careful who
does the rebuild as shops will allow a machine shop to take/make
shortcuts and that is not what we are all about. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I filled my 328 gts
gas tank up for the first time right to the top. then I drove the car
for 20 min and parked in my garage next morning I had this strong smell
of gas. I checked, no leaks anywhere just a smell. Can you overfill a
328 US model.
Herb Magister
A. If you fill a V-8 car to the top, you are bound to spill a little.
I would start Checking at the vent hoses that run from side to side and
locate the evap system hoses on the passenger side to see if you got
some liquid where there is normally vapor. Also check for any cracked
hoses. They are getting a little old.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. On a 98 F355 spyder, how do you pull the vents where the tweeters are mounted?
Kar Tunes
A. To remove the vents you need to look to see if there is a screw
that is accessed through the vent face. Rock the vent up and down and
use a good light to make sure someone didn't put a screw in there to
help hold it in place. Most vents come out with a prying at the point
where they swivel. There is a tab that the vent rotates on. You would
gently pry the two pieces apart and once started you would go to the
opposite side and pry again. Try both side to see what side wants to
move easier. You may want to see that things are cooperating and nothing
else is going to hold it back. This is plastic don't break it. Slow and
easy and no one will ever know you where in there. That's what you
want. Look at how it comes out and make sure you put it back in the SAME
way. You can use silicone spray. Any good hardware or auto parts store
has it. It is great for lubing plastic and rubber. Window slides etc.
Make sure it does not make you slip though. Plastic is more friendly
when its warm so a little sun could help. Patience is key.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have an '88 Mondial
with ABS. How do I go about bleeding the brakes? I have never done it
before. I have read many posts on ferrarichat. Should I have a friend
pump the brakes while I open and close the bleeder valve until clear,
bubbleless fluid comes out, or should I submerge the brake hose in clean
fluid to keep the air out. When finished with all 4
brakes(rr,lr,rf,lf),should I fill the reservoir with new brake fluid?
Any details would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Larry Wells
A. This ABS system is not unfriendly. If you press on the brake
pedal 30 to 40 times you will feel the pedal get harder. The booster and
the accumulator will dicharge vacuum and pressure. At this point you
are basically bleeding a hydralic system. You want to use a good DOT 3-4
fluid. I like Castrol LMA. Price is great, product too. You want to get
at least a quart $7.00. Buy a turkey baster and suck out all you can.
If you don't know not to spill any you should not be asking this
question. Use some old towels to protect your work area. Professionals
do and so should you. The key needs to be kept off. This is important.
Key off while any bleeder is open. So a clean reservoir and the system
purged. You top off the reservoir with new fluid and start bleeding. It
is better to keep the air out of the line. I like to pump the pedal a
few time with the line open to move fluid till its clear. Then I bleed
the last time or so to see if there is air. Check the reservoir often.
Like every 5 or so pumps. You will see how much fluid you use and you
donot want to let any air into the system because you let the reservoir
get low. Don't push the pedal to the floor. I use my hand and only go
down 1/2 way or so. You would be surprised what you can feel. If someone
is using the foot, only 1/2 way is ok. If you don't get fluid out of
the bleeder with it open and their foot on the brake, you are going to
need to be careful with the next step. If you can pump fluid through the
system with your hand/foot you don't need to do the next step. I am
trying to help you do maintenence on your own car. I might do some thing
different. This is where you may need to turn the key on [do not start
the engine] and while a foot is on the brake and key on, you will open
the bleeder SLOWLY. As the system now will have a lot of pressure. The
pressure is enough to blow the hose off, hurt you and make a mess etc.
So be careful. Let me know if you need more info. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. In your experience,
what is the best combination of jets/air correctors/etc. for a
carburetted 2-valve 308 engine with U.S. spec timing? Mine has a 1.25
main jet, 2.00 main air corrector, F36 main emulsion tube, and a .55
idle jet. I'm looking for optimum power, and smooth all-around
driveability across the rev range; I currently seem to be idling lean
(carb spitting) and have a slight hesitation with gentle throttle input
in the mid-range. Thanks!
Kevin
A. You need to make sure the ignition system is opperating properly.
What is the dwell? Do you have both sets of points hooked up? Are they
advanceing smoothly? Removing restrictions in the air box help as well.
Was the car purchased this way? What plugs are you using? Some have used
.60 idles and 135 mains. I would not attempt to just start changing
jets. Are the carbs synced? Have some one who knows these distributors
check your ign first. It is alot easier to do them than remove and
replace the carb stacks. I also have learned to not reuse the washers
under the nylocks. Make sure you count the bushings in the rubber seal
if you plan to remove the airbox. You know what will happen if you drop
anything down one of those carbs.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1992 512TR
and I have an issue with the ignition switch. When I attempt to start
the car, I can turn the key all the way and all the appropriate
indicator lights illuminate and buzzers will sound but it will not
energize the starter motor. After clicking the key back and forth for
several times(sometimes 3 -15 times) it will finally start. This happens
whether the car is cold or hot or immediately after shutting it down.
There is no pattern to it. Is this simply a bad switch or a connection
problem? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Holly Mungal
A. Confirm the starter is working fine ie: the solinoid engages if you
manually excite it. You could have a weak starter. I have found
ignition cut out switches on the wire coming from the ign key that
interupt the current flow to the the starter solnoid and that is what
keeps the engine from starting. If you test it, you may find 12v but not
enough amps to get the job done. You can install a simple relay at the
starter to fix it but that is not the way I prefer. The long way, you
would have to start at the ign switch and work your way through the
center consol, through the bulkhead to the starter solnoid. Make sure
the connector at the starter is ok first, right. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. How do I remove ign. switch cylinder and keys from 365gt?
Jim Snow
A. Removing an ign. switch is a straight job. Make sure to disconnect
the battery and make a drawning of the wire locations. A picture would
be better. A poor job here would turn up on a PPI, so keeep that in
mind.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1983 308gtsi
QV, and my problem is overheating. If the car is ran on the interstate
the temp will stay about 195 +\- 10 deg. If I am in traffic it will get
to about 230. That is when I shut it down. I am told that these cars are
not designed to run in heat climates and that overheating is expected.
Here is what I have done:
1. The radiator has been rodded.
2. The entire system has been flushed.
3. the water pump has been checked and is working fine.
4. Both fans have been changed to flush mount 650 CFM fans and are turning the correct way ( towards the radiator).
5. The a/c coil has been cleaned.
6. The fans come on about 195 deg.
I am not a mechanic but it appears that there is not enough air passing
though the radiator to cool it down. The car seems to be running rich
on an idle. Can a rich or lean mixture cause this? Also how can I adjust
the timing maybe it is off? I will try anything at this point.
Brandon Paradelas
A. The problem here seems to be a airflow or ability of the radiator
to disapate temperature. I would use a temp gun and check the temps as
they flow through the entire system. Remember to make sure there is no
air in the system and that collant is actually flowing ie: NO
restrictions. Does the coolant flow through the heater core? is it
getting to the core etc? Is the coolant flowing in a down up down and
out at the radiator? Are the fines taking heat from the water tubes?
This can be a very time consumming job. Are you using a 1.1 cap? Is
there foam around the radiator? Is the themostat check vale working and
did you look at the impeller on the water pump? All these things can
hurt cooling. Check tdc and valve timing. I once removed an a/c
condensor to prove to a customer that it was restricting air flow. Is
there heavy paint on the fins? Aftermarket fans do push more air. Fuel
mixture could play a part as well. 83 is the 1st year of the QV and was a
simple injection system. I believe they did upgrade the fans. Can you
feel the heat being pushed through the radiators? A co/hc test or maybe
you could find a temp problem using the temp gun. Like I said I had a
car from a central dealer shop that had a problem for many years
according to the invoices. Yes you can fix this and make ice cold a/c.
You might need to take the car to a 308 guru.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1996 F355
Berlineta. The car had been left standing for a few weeks with out use
and the battery went flat. I recharged the battery and then started the
car and left it to idle for 10 mins (as directed in the handbook). I
then drove the car hard for 40 miles with no problems. However when I
went to put the car in the garage the amber check engine 5,8 light
stated to flash. I can't find any reference to this in the hand book.
Any ideas?
Neil McMillan
A. I think you did not allow the car to readapt properly. I believe
there is a reference in the OM/handbook about all the lights on the
dash. You don't say if the car was running poorly or not. I would try to
relearn the ecm again and this time not drive the car hard until you
put some moderate miles and loads on the system. Then park the car for a
short time ie allow it to cool off some. Restart the car, let it idle
and turn on/cycle the loads one more before driving the car hard.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 2002 360
Modena with 11k miles. The slow down light comes on at rare intervals.
Was a problem but after spark plugs, filter and sensor changed happens
rarely mostly if there is dampness on the road. The sensor was changed
after the car was analyzed by the computer, yet it still happens. Is
this common? Based upon the expense of maintaining the car after the
warranty has ended, is it better to take my losses and get a new car
with a warranty or is the cost of maintaing the car after the car hits
15K reasonable? (As I love the car).
Steve
A. The problem came back? Call the shop and ask what there warranty
is. Was there a problem that the car needed spark plugs? Maybe the
symptom was repaired and not the cause. When did the problem first
start? Was it after service? Your car should have all the updates so
why replace it. Services are done in the car. Send me a note at franklin1111@aol.com
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I am myself a car
technician and used to work on ferraris since year 2000, specially on
Modenas. Since the factory started using the new clutch part number with
the longer "End of stroke studs", I started facing problems :
1-with the primary shaft always rotating and difficulty in engaging
reverse streight from neutral.
2-Error showing clutch sensor error even if I replaced the clutch
sensor(Value too low).
I had to fit shims thick 2mm between the clutch sensor holder base and
the release bearing sleeve in order to increase the closed clutch value
from 15.46 to 17.46 mm.
Then problem was solved and I had to change the new value in order to
have the same wear value as it was before modification.
Any idea of this problem? Thanks in advance.
Bernard Safaatly
A. Was your fix a standard operations fix or did someone not tell
you? I wonder if the car could have benefited from a tcm
reflash/upgrade. Please reply to franklin1111@aol.com. I have a question reguarding your tip values and your software used.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 99 355 spider
F1. I broke the Magneti Marelli electric motor that is on the
hydraulic pump of the F1 gearbox. I need to buy the motor itself not
the complete pump. Where can I find it? Thanks.
Fabio
A. I understand there are aftermarket replacement parts out there, but
I would not recomend it. Ss I don't have any experience to share. I
would like to see a picture of your broken part. E-mail it to franlin1111@aol.com. You can try one of the chat lines or call one of the FOC sponsors.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. Hi, Could you help with
a problem on a 1999 355. We recently replaced the battery on this car
(both terminals were very corroded) and the battery warning light has
been on ever since even though it is charging (14.2 v at the battery).
Any ideas, Thanks.
Pete Anthony
A. It sounds like a poor connection [caused by corrusion or the circuit has been corruped]. Let us know your findings franklin1111@aol.com.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Q. I have a 1990 Ferrari
Mondial T. I've had the 30,000 mile servicing complete 2 years ago when
the car reach 21,000 miles. Today it has 24,000 miles. When I purchased
the car 2 years ago it also had a high-performance exhaust system
installed.
This week I had the "Slow Down 1-4" light indicator come on. When that
happened I also lost power. I pulled over, stoped the car - checked the
oil levels - all looked OK so I started up again and everything was
fine.
However, I took the car out again yesterday and the same thing
happened.
Can you suggest what is going on and what I can tell the mechanic to
verify in order to rectify the problem?
Bill Osborne
A. I sugguest you read your owners manual. When you don't follow the
slow down warnings the computer will cause you to feel the loss of power
you describe by shutting down the bank of cylinders that caused the
warning. Read the old tech tips about swapping bits from one bank to the
other. This is a common problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. My 1990 Testarossa
shifts hard especially when cold like every other Test. Is there any
special lub or additive that will help this situation? I plan to use
Mobil One Syn. unless you have a better idea. Thanks.
Ted Tiemeyer
A. I like the Redline 75/90 NS to help with this problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. On my 2001 360 F1
Spider, cold oil level is barely over the tip of the probe, whereas
after the engine reaches running temp, removed the cover and oil frothed
to the top of the measuring area, well over the max line. Car was not
overheating, serviced 1000 miles ago, this being a routine check.
Should we add oil? Pressure upon starting is below 40 - 50, with no
warning lights illuminated.
A. Foamy oil is normal. Turn the engine off and wait a minute then check again.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1988 328 GTS
and I have a small oil leak from the shifter bushing, the car needs
belts next year is it better to do it at the same time or can this be
fixed by itself. Do they have to remove the motor for this. Also my
power windows are very slow, how can I fix this? Thank you.
Herb Magister
A. The shifter seal leak can be fixed with the engine in place. They
will have to remove some parts to get the oil pan off, but the job can
be done in the car and while it is having its belt service. Make sure
you service the t belt drive bearigs if needed. Also make sure you see
the parts that where replaced on the car. As far as the slow windows go I
would bet the grease in the window transmission is old and holding the
window back. It takes about 3 hours each side. The cables can be
tricky.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. We have a 1995 Ferrari 456 gta right hand drive. We need the tracking specifications.
Andy
A. Alignment specs for a euro model should be found in it's owners
manual. If you do not have an owners manual you can download one by
signing on the the owners site or asking on the UK chat line.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1998 355 F1
and I was wondering how the seals go exactly in the slave cylinder and
how do I get it to stop leaking when I put it all back together. I have
talked to several people that are helping me to solve the problem.
They all say try soaking the seals in hot water then put them on and
lube the shaft with atf when reinstalling the slave cylinder. I have
tried many different things and cannot get it to stop leaking and I just
got a new clutch for it due to the same problem. thanks for any help.
Zach
A. If you look at a parts diagram closely you will see the correct
placement. The seals look the same but are smaller larger and scrappers
go in a specific order. I use atf or prelube to install them, I did not
have to warm them up. The t/o bearing is very difficult pressing on the
the collar but you can help each seal/scrapper as you go. I am able to
push the 2 pieces together by hand. Yes its tuff. If you are talking
about the triple seals on the clutch shaft and disc drive you need to
put them in hot water to soften then and then push/work them into place.
Use a blow dryer to help them soften and shrink some what and then
again work each seal into the disc drive. By the way did you check the
drive bearings. Worn bearing could start a leak. Send me an email and
let me know how you make out. franklin1111@aol.com
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. My 1988 328 gts is very hard to start when the motor is hot when its cold it starts right away.
Herb Magister
A. Engine won't start after a hot soak. Well we could go on about this, but when was the car serviced last. Is it time?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. 1983 Mondial QV
Cabriolet. Just replaced return hose to expansion tank. Cleaned and
checked thermostat while working on the coolant system. All ok. I'm
getting a popping noise upon start-up, that goes away after a few
minutes. Sounds like a spark jumping. Will take a look at night to see
whether I can see the spark location. Any other ideas?
Jamie Sadler
A. A popping/clicking noise could be a belt out of adjustment or a
bad ignition wire. Working in the hose area you may have dislodged a
ignition wire. You would still have the noise running and there may be a
lose of power. You could always look at night for spark dancing and if
you mist the ignition wires with some water you find any poor
insulation. Check the extender between the wire and plug for signs of
arcing. Check to see if a back-fire valve is starting to leak as well.
Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1985
Testators that has started draining the battery. The small marker lights
in the doors would stay on even though the doors were closed. I tested
all the door switches with a DC volt and Continuity meter and they seem
to disconnect as they should. Even after removing the bulbs the battery
will die within a couple of days. New Battery and a quick once over of
the cables and disconnect with the meter yields nothing. Any
Suggestions?
Bill Rowell
A. Electric drain can be a drag. You'll need a low amp probe or hook
up a amp meter to the battery and start removing fuses till you isolate
your problem. There should only be a draw of say 50 ma.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a '97 355 GTS, 6
Speed, Tubi exhaust, 18k miles. After the car is thoroughly warmed up,
the throttle tends to hang up, that is the car does not readily
decelerate when letting the gas off, and when stopped the idle start to
climb ever higher. When the a/c is on, it sometimes climbs up to 2000
rpm on its own. What do you think the most likely culprit would be in
this situation?
Steven B.
A. I would check the acel pedal to make nothing is hanging up. Check
the throttle at the engine. Is the battery charging? The engine tries to
compensate for loads. Did a vacuum hose fall off? Let us know what you
find out.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I own a 1989 328 GTS. I
have a strange intermittent problem with the "slow down" light located
in the lower left corner adjacent to the Speedo. After the car
initially warms up, as I drive over a small to medium bump in the road,
the "slow down" light will blink. Then as the car continues to warm up,
in addition to the bump blinks, when I make a right turn, the light will
stay on as long as the wheel is turned and extinguishes when the turn
is completed. This is only during a right turn. Now, the car is at full
operational temperature, and the light will show up intermittently when I
jump on the throttle. I'm not sure if this illumination is caused by
greater sensitivity to bumps or it actually telling me I need to slow
down. I am not pushing the car at all really. 4000 RPM 85 - 90 MPH.
During this time, all gauges reading normal. I'm wondering if the
bump/blink/right-turn illumination is caused by a connection problem.
What is your opinion on what the likely explanation and the possible
solution to this problem. Thanks.
Dennis Eckel
A. Sounds like it might be a bad exhaust temp ECU. You can check the
wiring in the dash cluster. Check the wiring at the thermo coupling and
its ECU. How is the car running? Is the exhaust hotter then normal? Is
it smelling like sulfur? You can see if the cat is red hot at night. You
might want to have someone look at the car that knows them. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. This is my first time
doing an a oil change on a 95 355 berlinetta. Can you please give me
some directions on doing it? Thank you very much.
Marcelo
A. Make sure you have all the parts and they are correct or up dated.
It would be very helpful if you did this with someone that has done
this before. You will need something to hold the 11 qts or there about
used oil. Have some rags around. Warm the enigne up. Check the oil level
for good practice. Drain the engine oil from the front drain, I believe
it is 12mm. You need to drain the tank as well. Let them drain well,
and you can check to see about how much oil you will need to replace to
start or less if the oil was over filled. Make sure you check your OM to
make sure you drain the right oil. Remove the oil filter and use some
rags just in case oil drips. Wet the filter o-ring. I like to prime the
filter but if you don't know what you are doing, don't cause you will
make a big mess. Tighten the filter hand tight. Don't over tighten the
drain plugs. put 7-8 quarts of oil in. Check the tank not to over fill
it. Start the engine make sure you don't have any leaks and add oil (1-2
quarts) till you see oil on the stick. expect the oil to expand so
DON,T over fill her. That's why I said to check the oil level at the
beginning and to see how much oil you drained. If the level was safe
when the engine was warm and you removed 10 quarts then put back what
you took out. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 95 F355. The
other day while driving the slow down 1-4 lite came on for 30 seconds or
so and there was a great loss of power. It went away and I drove home
OK. A few days later when starting up the same lite was on and that bank
of cylinders was not fireing as the manifold stayed cold. I fidled with
the ignistion wires and coil pack but still nothing then a few minutes
later it was ok. Today I drove for 10 minutes and the same thing
happened for a few seconds. I have a tubi with no cats. Can you give me a
few reasons whey this might be happening.
Frank Dellapina
A. I would test the thermo coupling on that bank and switch it over to
the 5-8 bank to see if the problem. Thermo coupling's are variable
resistors, but you might find a break in the wire while taking an ohm
test and moving the the cable around.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I recently bought a
2001 360 spider. I own a auto repair garage and would like to buy a SD2
scan tool. Prefer a used one maybe from someone that upgraded to a SD3.
Gary Bryan
A. There are used tools available, but you should question if you can
have it serviced. Some tools are not repairable anymore [SD/1]. You
need to use judgement as not all tools for sale are legal or they do not
come with any support. You are better advised to speak with aftermarket
part suppliers. I believe there are 2 people selling the SD/3 at last
check. Personally I would like to buy one from Ferrari if they would
sell me one. But I don't think they will.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have receintly
purchassed a 1985 GTS, along with the car came a replacement air vent
that for the top of the dash I need to install. It looks as if it might
pry out, although I see a screw next to the vent.....Your suggestions
would be appreciated
Douglas Crall
A. I would say to first check the replacement part to make sure it is
correct. Look to see if a screw hole is in it. Remove the screw with a
magnetic screwdriver so you do not lose it. Gently pry up on the
plastic. You could try using a little silicone spray under the vent lip.
Be careful not to damage the dash. Put something under your tool if you
are going to pry hard.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. My 79 308 GTS runs
alright, but many times when accelerating--just when initially
increasing the throttle, it will pop back through the carbs. A popping
sound with a loss of power. Once the initial pop or two occurs, it will
usually accelerate fine.
With the air cover off, the pops seem random--not from any specific
carb. Some time ago I had removed the restrictive sound baffle in the
air cleaner snorkle, and it seems to pop more now. I put a piece of
cardboard in the housing to simulate the old baffle, and it's a bit
better. Running it with the choke on just makes it run rough.
Plugs looked a bit black sooty, not heavy or fouled, but not oily and
not lean-looking.
The carbs were rebuilt a couple years ago by the previous owner at a
Ferrari dealer. Distributors look good. Advance curve supposedly worked
over by a mechanic a couple years ago.
Carb jets? Timing? Points? Advance? Cam belts off a tooth?
Greatly appreciative for any advice! Awful embarasing to drive a
Ferrari and have it pop and stumble in front of people!
Art
A. It looks like you have checked a lot of things out but you don't
say you checked the ignition system. Check the cap, rotor, wires and
the wire extensions. I bet you find your problem there. Make sure you
are using NGK plugs and that you didn't foul them out. Also disconnect
the choke.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1990 tr and I want to change the oil. I have oil filter what kind of oil do i need? Thank you.
Stephen Hampton
A. I have been using Mobil 0 W 40. Read the owner manual for other
tips. i.e. don't put all the oil in at once, where the engine and tank
drain plugs at located. Do your self a favor and check the cambio and
v-belts while you are under the car .
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 92 348 TB The
seal on the AC Compressor is leaking. Do you know of a place to buy an
aftermarket compressor for a reasonable price.
Harry Stopher
A. If you want to replace the compressor on your 348, I suggest you try Ricambi America as they have a good replacement compressor.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have an '89 Mondial T
and when I removed the clutch (wasn't going into gear hot) there was
heavy grease around the throw-out bearing and, of course, the discs were
greased and some grease around the clutch housing. First, can the
throw-out bearing discharge a sizable amount of grease, or is the
flywheel assembly a more likely source of the grease? Thanks.
Doug Crawford
A. The heavy grease you see around the flywheel is the grease inside
the flyweel leaking. You can try removing all the grease, repairing the
seal and grease or replace the flywheel if it is worn. You can try our
sponsors for parts.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I own a 99 360 Modena
F1, 16,000 miles. I have recently noticed the gears changing from 2nd to
netural and occassionaly from 5th to neutral, what could this problem
be?
Andrew Pringle
A. Check to make sure the door, engine lid and bonnet are closed as a
lose of signal will put the car in neutral. The pump relay could go bad.
Check the F1 fluid. Read your owners manual. The shift accuator may
also be out of adjustment. Please tell us what you find.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 83 308 qv and
just did a cam belt replacement. When the engine runs bout 2-3 minutes
the valves will start to clatter like no oil is getting to them but the
oil gauge reads 85 psi. What did I do? Is there any part of doing a cam
belt replacement that will affect the oil system?
Brandon Paradelas
A. You don't say if you adjusted the valves but I want to guess that
you did not and that your problem is when you replaced the belts. I
would take the covers back off and inspect the belts, idlers and don't
forget to check the cam drive bearing. These should be replaced after a
number of miles. It is not that difficult to over tighten the cam belt.
If left too long this problem could get very expensive.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. 1984 308QV. The car
loses power after running for about 10 minutes. Sometimes loses power
right after "Warm up". I suspect something to do with ignition, but
where should I start? Thanks in advance.
Sean Frazier
A. The car should be taken to the shop. It might be a clogged cat. Are there any other symptoms?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a customer with a
99 Ferrari 355 manual Gear box. He is asking what product he should use
in it? We have heard many Ferrari guys are using our products in these
gear boxes? Can you tell me anything about what he should be using? He
is currently using RedLine 75W90 NS.
James
A. I have used 75w90 NS and find it to be a good product. I have used
the redline since the 80's. I have also used Royal Purple in the engine
and find it excellant. There are many excellant products on the market.
Ferrari of Central Florida uses Lubrication Engineers Products.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 400I that only
runs on one bank of cyl. It has a new fuel dist., plugs, wires and a
MSD-6 ign. It only fires on the left hand side on the exhaust stroke?
Richard Cueto
A. Was this car running fine before all these changes? Why all the
replacements? If we are just talking about the msd unit I would check
the wiring instructions and to see if the unit needs or is defective
reguarding 12 cylinder operation. How many miles on the timing
chain/adjustment. Have you confirmed fuel. You might need to check all
the basics/vitals. Make sure you are not 180 degrees out on that bank.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. My 1986 testarossa
occasionally seems to go into the wrong gear even though i have put the
gear stick into the proper place for the gear i want. It is only
happening in gear 2 and 3 but not the gears 1 3 and 5. As i said this
only happens sometimes but i am worried about it and know if it happens
on a wet road the back wheels could lock up and cause a serious
accident. Any answers to how i sort it and is it a major job?
Thomas Mc Stocker
A. The trans needs to be drained and the access cover removed to
inspect the linkage. This is better left to a experienced tech. A call
to a professional in your area should be helpful. It is not a hard job,
but can be a hair pulle.r Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1986 Ferrari
Testarossa with 13000 miles. Last night I was driving home and the slow
down cylinders 7-12 came on. I drove into the garage and upon lifting
the engine lid I noticed the catalytic converter and muffler were
glowing red. The whole exhaust was replaced by Ferrari less than 3000
miles ago for the same reason. What is the Problem? Thank you.
Vincent Troncoso
A. Well it seems they will be replacing the system again unless the
cause of the problem is addressed. The 7-12 bank is overheating because
of raw fuel in that bank. The car will need to be diagnosed to correct
the problem. You don't say how the car was running or if anything seems
out of place. How old are the plug wires, maybe a bad injector. We
could go on guessing. Parts from one bank can be swapped to the other
bank to isolate the problem. You might find additional info if you look
back in the tech tips. Please share your findings with us when the
problem is corrected. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. What is a reasonable price to pay for a timing belt change on my 2001 360 spider?
Jay Edmark
A. In our area it should be in the $1,500.00 range.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. My 1990 Testarossa has a
speedometer and odometer problem. While traveling less than 30mph the
speedometer zoomed up to 200mph and stayed there until the key is turned
off. With the car standing still and the motor running the speedo goes
back to 200mph and the odometer spins up miles. How big of a problem do I
have?
Ted Tiemeyer
A. It sounds like the speedo [dash pod unit] needs to be sent out and
repaired. You can try disconnecting the speedo sensor on the tranny to
stop the milage from rolling by.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 95 355 coupe
which I recently changed out the cats to hyperflow. I've driven the car
maybe 3 or 4 times with no problems. Just recently my check engine 1-4
light has come on. Vehicle still seems to run fine with no noticeable
problems. I've tried restarting it a day or two later and the warning
light still remains on. Could the result of this be from the new
hyperflow cats I had installed. The manufacturer claims their hyperflow
cats do not affect the obd sensor. Any other possibilities related to
this check engine light being on. Thanks for your help!
Royce Mendonca
A. You may have damaged a thermo coupling when changing the cats. Try
switching them from side to side to see if the error code moves to the
other side. If the light changes sides you have a bad thermo coupling.
Do you check the car for error codes? Before and or after the
installation. This should be a Motronic 2.7 system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1981 308 GT I
have had it serviced to the max. However I was told the back half of the
engine runs hotter than the front. I was told it glows after long
driving. I had it wrapped with whatever they use and thats that. Is this
normal Thanks.
Barry Card
A. A 1981 2 valve motor with 1-4 bank exhaust glowing may be an
indication of a clogged cat. I would check both headers. You can try
pulling plugs to isolate a problem. You speak of wrapping the headers?
Did you take the insulaton off of them. What does your mechanic say?
Is it the headers or the cat that is glowing?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I just bought a used '97
456GTA with no service records (owner's manual only) from a private
party who was not the original owner. The car has only 8K miles on it
and has been driven about 1K miles recently by the past owner but I'm
considering having the 30K major done on it for my own piece of mind.
Has Chicago REALLY the closest factory authorized mechanic to Minnesota?
Since the engine doesn't have to be pulled to change the timing belts,
what should I expect to have to pay and how long might it take
(assuming no surprises)? How can I get replacement service books and
instructions for the 12-disc changer? Will Ferrari cover the cost of
recall work (I found there were several potentially affecting my car) if
I am not the original owner of the car? Lastly, I really wanted the
6-speed manual. Is the cost prohibitive to convert this car to a 6-speed
manual? Thanks,
Name Withheld
A. There are 2 dealers in the IL area and one in mich. This is an
older car and the dealership my not be the cheapest place to go. You
should join the FOC and talk to members. You may also try
ferrarilife.com and ferrarichat.com for other independents. I would
bring the car in asap if there are no records. For cam belts you are
proably looking in the $1500-$2000 range. I'm sure you will need more
than belts and idlers. A 10 year old car will need proper PM to be a
driver. Fluids, hoses and filters could double that. We are not talking
about hardware broken by a previous owner. How about tires? are they
10 years old. The dealership will be useful for information regarding
any recalls not completed on the car. I would not consider a
transmission swap. I believe there were only 403 of your car made.
Besides you don't know what the car really needs at this point. Sounds
like you should have gotten a ppi.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have owned a wonderful
1997 F355GTS for 2 years now. Never a problem until now. Sat for the
winter, had to charge the battery to start. Went for a 59 mile easy
drive and check engine light came on. Even after a shut down and
restart the next day still a steady check engine light stays on. Checked
the fuel cap ok. Runs well. Out of the blue its on. Can a Snap on
generic scan tool read the codes? How do you check the engine oil
level, running or engine off? Thank you
Vaughn Hoplamazian
A. The 97 F355 GTS is an ODBII car so only generic codes or data
stream can be monitored with your snap-on scanner. You can clear and
inspect readiness monitors as well. Read the codes and clear them.
Start the car and idle till fans cycle then turn on and off loads on the
car. Let the idle stabilize. Never touching the throttle. Drive the
car a short distance to confirm mil lamp is off, or resetting of the
code in which case we'll hear from you again. Please let me know what
codes you get so I may help the next person. Check the engine oil many
ways but the engine has to have run and idled. You should check it at
idle and then again a minute after shutting it down. Let us know what
you get.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 2001 360
spider. Is my mechanic being truthful when he is telling me my engine
has to be pulled for the 30,000 mile service to change timing belt etc..
Thank you.
Jay Edmark
A. The engine does not need to be removed for a timing belt change on a 360.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. Hi, I own a 1987 328
with 36K miles. I posted before concerning what appeared to be gear oil
leaking from a vent cap on the transmission transfer gear cover. I
proceeded to drain the transmission gear oil and noticed that it was
almost 2 gallons, 3 qts over to be precise. I also noticed that the main
magnetic drain plug caught a small spring from within my tranny. I then
checked the engine oil and it was low by about 3 qts. Is there any way
that my engine oil is transferring to my tranny?
A little history, I purchased the car 6 months ago w/ 32.5k miles. It
now has 38k miles. What was happening was that at high engine speeds or
sustained velocity, oil would start leaking from the transmission vent
cap (the one atop the transfer gears). It would splatter onto my left
axle and onto the exhaust, causing horrific smoke. I removed the spring
loaded cap and attached a hose with a breather/filter at the end (an
old off roading trick to get the axle vents at a higher plane). I then
secured the breather to the coolant tank area. I still managed to spit
oil even at that elevated point but at least it wasn't landing on my
exhaust any more. I then drained the gear oil at the tranny sump and
under the clutch. I measured and found it to be 2 gals. I thought that
since it was over-filled it was over flowing. I filled with 4.25 qts of
Mobil 1 gear oil. When I later checked the engine oil it was down 3 qts.
I had topped off the oil less than 3k miles ago. Made me wonder if the
two oils are mixing. It happens to be equal amounts.
The spring I found magnetically attached to the tranny sump plug is
about 1/4" long and 1/16" diameter. The car actually shifts better now
than before I changed the gear oil. It always was stubborn to shift into
second when cold, would sometimes grind when hot and would absolutely
not go into 4th at anything above 7k rpm. I thought it was the linkage
or that at that speed the engine/tranny was shifting/rocking severely
causing the linkage to bind. It would feel that if I forced the shift
lever any more it would snap. Now I can shift easier, no grinding and no
more oil spitting out. All the shifts are positive. I am keeping an eye
on it. I plan to drain the oil in 3k miles and measure both engine and
tranny again. Was wondering if somehow the oils found a common path. The
gear oil was black and I also found some grinds in it. Any info would
be appreciated.
Luis Pelaez
A. Why wait to check the fluid levels? There is a problem in the
transmission if you cannot engage 4th. It sounds like the engine oil
[black ] is being pushed in the gear box and blowing out the vent on top
of the transfer cover. I would take the car to a shop as this sounds
like it could get worse.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a 1982 308 GTB
that unfortunately due to health problems has not been driven in about 6
months. Now the inevitable has happened, the battery is dead. Can it
be recharged and if so, do I need to remove the gigantic spare tire to
do so? I also experience the throttle sticking about 3-4 times and made
certain there were no obstructions, i.e. floor mats. Any suggestion
would be much appreciated.
Monique Dean
A. To charge the battery on your 308 you will need to remove the spare
and the battery cover. You may want to load test the battery to see if
it needs replacing. You may also want to install a battery tender to
help prevent this problem from happening again. As far as the sticking
throttle you don't need me to tell you how potentially dangerous that
sort of problem can be. Try opening the throttle [engine off] to see if
the throttle is sticking or the cable. You can use a little WD 40 to
lube the spring and maybe spray a small amount in the cable shield.
Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. 1977 Ferrari 308 GTB I need to know the spark plug gap. Thanks.
John Viesta
A. The gap for a points type ignition is .024 to .027 inches. Metric
would be .6 to .7 mm. I would use NGK plugs as well. Put a tiny bit of
anti seize [ball point pen tip amount] and not to tight, ok. Anti seize
can fouled a plug. Use dielectric jelly on the spark plug wire end so
the boots will come off easy and to keep corrosion down. It is a good
idea to blow out the the plug hole before removing the plugs.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. The engine check system
failure remains constantly lit in my 360 modena. I noticed a remarkable
reduction of the engine performances. Is anything wrong?
Solo Bakay
A. If the MIL is on and the car is running poorly it is time to take
the car to shop before anything pemanent happens that will probly cost
you $ and time enjoying your car. You can tighten the fuel cap and
check the fluids, then remove the key, turn off the battery switch, wait
a minute or so turn it back on. Then start the engine. if all the lamps
don't go off you need to get the car to the shop.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have an '87 328 GTS w/
36k miles. I have what I think is transmission fluid leaking from a
spring loaded cap near the clutch housing. It is a cap that sits on top
of the transmission housing that has cooling fins opposite the fill hole
by the clutch housing. It sprays onto the left axle and all over the
place. When I sustain high speeds, it lands on the exhaust.
Luis Pelaez
A. I am not sure where you are talking about. You should check the
gear lube level as well as the engine oil level. You might spray the
area with brake cleaner and wipe the area off so you better locate the
leak. Is it coming from the tranfer gear cover, the bellhousing/clutch
area or is the fluid leaking from above? If fluid has been added
recently, it may have been overfilled.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have just acquired an
'86 Testarossa and have noticed a problem with the speedometer
periodically not moving from 0. The other gauges seem fine, and the
odometer turns despite the malfunctioning speedometer. I can't detect
any pattern as to when it will stop or when it will magically come back.
Any clues?
Rob Thies
A. Check the connection on the back of the unit. If that doesn't help send the unit out for repair.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. Hi, I have just
purchased a 1986 testarossa from a dealer who led me to believe that the
belts did not need replaced as they replaced them at 23,968 miles in
May 2002. The car has now just covered 25,250 miles but the dealer said
belts only need replaced every 5 years or 8,000 miles so the car is not
due this work, however I have since looked through the owners hand book
and it states that the belts must be changed after a maximum of 24
months. I know I should have been much more carefull but this really is a
well known and respected dealership and I guess I may have been too
trusting. Have I been cheated or are the more modern belts longer
lasting and stronger?
Thomas Mc Stocker
A. I dont know why the maintenance schedules are different in europe
than here in the states. I understand that in the UK people change belts
every two years. Is it because of the weather? The belts are the same
here and there. It sounds like the 5 years was just about up to begin
with. Where are you located. You may want to speak with other TR owners
as to what should be done while the engine is out. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I own a 1999 355 F1
spyder. My problem is with the transmission. It first started by making a
chattering sound from the gearbox housing. It also started to shift
harder into every gear at this time. I did not notice any clutch
slippage, no warning ringer from car. I took into shop and the tech told
me the computer was reading everything was fine...no error faults. When
I shifted into First from Neutral, the car would roll forward like the
clutch was slighty engaged and same with reverse (roll backwardds). I
now have a difficult time shifting in first from neutral. It will either
try to shift or won't do anything at all. Half the time I am finally
able to get it into first. Is this a sign of a bad Throw out bearing or a
bad clutch. Is there any signs I should look for if I decide to take
apart myself? Any directions on how to replace a throwout bearing?
Thanks in advance, your site is very helpful.
Brad
A. You have a 6 year old car and if this is the first problem you
should not be surprised. Has this car been serviced by somone that has
experience with this car. The chattering could be a flywheel or plate
maybe a worn drive bearing that caused the problem. Of course it may be
the clutch is worn. Replacing a throwout bearing [the part alone is
approaching $ 1000.00] is not that difficult. How's the slave cylinder.
The computer controls it. Not cheap and not a walk in the park to
rebuild. The clutch needs to be reset and bleed. If you cannot do that
yourself then it will need to be brought to a shop that can. F1 system
is realy not for the DIY. Always be careful not to overfill the
reservoir [use donax tx] let the system rest before ever topping off.
This fluid should also be serviced when the clutch is done, minimum.
Please keep us up to date with your findings.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have noticed a loss in
throttle response over the last 2 years on my 1999 F355 GTS F1 car. I
replaced the coils, and had FAS facility check the cats, and replace the
plugs. Still poor response, and even the FAS facility could not figure
it out. I did however replaced the OEM ignition wires with a set from
Kingsborne and seem to make a great improvement. I then went to the
Gruppe M intakes that helped a small bit, but I feel I am not quite to
where it was when I purchased it. It seems to take too much time to get
to the 8500 rpms. Also replaced the fuel filter, and just prior to
purchase it went through 30K major and now only has 33K on it.
Carmine Petrone
A. I have heard this before, but never had the problem in my shop. I
look forward to the challenge. What does FAS think about the lose of
power. Do they agree. Has there been a leakdown test done on the car.
Should a vacuum test be performed to test the cat's. What are the
exhaust temps. Should the valve timing be confirmed. I suspect lastly
that I would reflash or swap out the ecu. Please consider joining the
FOC in your area.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I am in the US Air Force
and have served for 4 years and about to get out. I went to Italy and
fell in love with exotic cars. I liked them before, but now I want to
work on them. I am a mechanic now working on jet engines and things, but
I am about to get out. Where can I go to school or where can I learn to
work on these awesome cars?
Matt
A. If I was in Italy and loved the cars I would stay where I could be
around and learn the most about them. If you are back in the states,
you should talk to a dealer near you. They may have an apprentice
program or know of a good school in your area.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I recently replaced both
fuel pumps on my 1987 Testarossa. I drained the old fuel and put in
fresh fuel along with injection cleaner. The car is still running only
on one bank(7-12) What else should I do?
Kevin R. Bell
A. Kevin why were the fuel pumps replaced? Was the car running poorly
before the pump replacement? When did the car's problem start? Was the
car washed or serviced before the problem started? Is there anything
hanging off the car? If the car is running on one bank you could swap
parts from one bank to the other to help locate the problem. You need to
be very careful about making sure the key is off when you are plugging
and unplugging components. Only make one change at a time. Take your
time and make notes. Yes, notes help you and others if you need to speak
with someone. A voltage spike could ruin a part and that will only add
to your problems. Make sure all connections are properly connected. You
might add stabilant 22A to any connection you expose. It can be
purchased on line or you may be able to buy it from select dealerships.
On-line might be easier, try http://www.ricambiamerica.com for the Stabilant 22A.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. Where can I buy original parts for my 88 328 gts?
Domenic Pede
A. Original parts can be ordered from any authorized Ferrari dealer.
You can also try on-line by registering for the Ferrari Owners site at http://www.owners.ferrari.com/
and using the official parts supplier for older Ferraris (Ferrari UK). You can also try http://www.ricambiamerica.com. They have quite a few OEM replacement high wear parts.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. This past year my '88
Testarossa has 3 times complained about restarting while warm. The key
turns, but nothing happens - no noticeable sounds at all. After hitting
the key a few more times - it has always engaged and then the car
promptly starts. Ideas?
Ernest Riggen
A. Check the connections from the battery to the starter. Check for
voltage at the solenoid wire when the engine is warm. There may be
resistance on the circuit and when the car is warm there is not enough
amps to energize the starter solenoid. If you can jump direct to the
starter when the car is warm and it starts you know the starter is ok. I
have had them rebuilt for PM and usually the rebuilder finds worn parts
i.e. bendix drive. As far as the source of resistance on the starter
circuit I have found cut out switches or weak relays in the line. You
need to have this work done by a qualified mechanic because you can let
the smoke out of the box if you are not careful.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I am in the market for a
F1 360. A friend told me his 2000 F1 360 tranny constantly got
overheated in traffic jams to the point of the alarm beeping and him
having to get off the road. He thinks this is a generic problem with
Ferrari F1's in Mexico City altitude (10,000 ft). Is there a known
overheating problem with 360 F1 trannies? Do all models 1999-2004 have
the same tranny or has the design being modified in time? Thank you.
Victor Gonzalez
A. I do not believe the problem is just Mexico. Think about south
Florida and how hot and humid it gets. Thin air has nothing to do with
the clutch. The car I had in today had 14
instances of clutch over heating and he got 27 thousand miles on it.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have a '73 246gts, due
for change of transmission fluid. The transmission sump bolt seems to
be an odd size, between 23 and 24 mm (also between 7/8 and 15/16). Is
there a special tool for removal of this bolt, and where can it be
obtained? Any particular specifications for transmission oil (the
manual specifies some obscure Shell lubricant). thanks!
Jan Jurnecka
A. The plug is probaly brass and just rounded off. You should use a
75w90 lude and should put 1-2 bottes of bg limited slip treatment or use
GM limited slip addittive. You could try the red line product or just
use castrol. You should make sure you can get the fill plug off. Check
the level/viscosity of the fluid before changing. You could also pump
some clean fliud through if it was dirty. Gray fluid would indicate a
water problem. Be sure to check the vent etc.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I have an 86 328 with a
rattling ac compressor. Would a 308 (any year) ac compressor fit any
328 or should I be aware of different types of compressors for each
vehicle?
Michael Peters
A. It sounds like there could be damage to the compressor where it
would need to be removed. This car uses r-12 unless it was updated. You
don't say. If I were to replace a compressor I would look for the best I
could afford and replace the dryer and o-rings. Don't forget that if
material from the comp got into the system you have a much larger job. I
would not used the old 308 compressor. These cars were not known for
their a/c. They can be modernized. When looking for used parts I
recommend searching the internet. There are sites here and abroad. Did
you post a question in the classified section of this site.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. How much does the mileage of a 1998 Ferarri F355 spider convertable depreciate in value in percentage per 1,000 miles.
Steve in Ireland
A. 355 mileage depreciation by the thousand that's funny. You got me
on that one. More like a dealer talking to a customer and telling him I
can't give you a good trade in because you went over the miles. I guess
we want to tell you that a good way to judge mileage is to look at what
the prices are for the car right now. I am not sure was there ever a
number for average miles in a ferrari? 8 to 10 thousand a year. I might
add that I would prefer a car that was driven and not parked. Also was
the car serviced for the time and mileage. And we should recommend a
PPI. A spider in Ireland, I wonder if the car is driven in the
weather[rain]. That would be worse than high mileage. There are many
sites in the UK that really are quite informative.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. My dad owns a ferrari 430 spider, recently the battery went dead,
and now the radio is stuck in lock down mode. I read the owner's manual
and it said to enter the code card number, the only problem is, is that
there is a electronic code # and then a regular code number. the regular
code number is 7 digits long- 1*2* 3 4 5 6 7, but the code is 5 digits
long? I don't know what card number to use and if you enter the wrong
one the car has to remain on for 2700 seconds before redoing the code
again. any help?
Dominique
A. I would call the salesman and ask him. My thoughts on the code are
to use the 5 digit number and then the other. When I did find the
correct number I would circle it, for future use. I would also install a
battery tender on the car. Too many problems can be associated with
dead batteries. These automobiles have many electronic elements and
taking electricity from them cause them to clear their current memory.
This may result in the radio not working to idle problems, door locking
issues, alternators failing prematurely because they are having to
charge a battery when they were designed maintain a charge. Batteries
will go bad because they where totally discharged and and then charged
at too high a charge rate. Todays batteries cannot accept the old ways.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Q. I have a 1990 348TS. The
Climate Control Unit seems to have a gremlin. Sometimes it works,
sometimes it doesn't. Usually it will only run full heat in summer and
then full a/c in winter, not a desirable condition. The dealer says
this is a common problem with the 348/355 series computers and it will
cost $2200 to replace one. Do you know where I can find a used unit or a
new one for less?
John Houston
A. It could be the circuit board, but we do not know the level of the
diagnostics of the problem. The boards have been repairible in some
cases. The solder on these boards is very poor. Resoldering the board
usually corrects the problem. There are places on the internet that sell
parts from salvaged cars, but I don't have anyone to recommend. I could
test it in a 348 here and confirm or repair it. I would like to know
what other functions are working and if there are any codes inside. By
pressing a button sequience you can test various functions on this
unit.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I finally have the
chance to own a testarossa after years of hoping and dreaming and I just
need your advice on what to buy. I can buy a 1991 testarossa fitting my
specifications with a full history from a dealer with 39,000 miles on
the clock or for £2,000 less buy an early 1986 single mirror version
from the dealer with full history with only 24000 miles. Now on paper
the 24000 mile car would make more sense and odly enough I like the
single mirror though alot of people do not. Which car do you think would
be the better purchase? Is it true the early cars with the single wheel
nut cause loads of trouble with the axle?. If I ever try to sell it
will it be hard to sell being older? Is there anything else I should
know about the early car or should I go for the younger higher mile car?
Both come fully serviced and with a waranty and I plan to keep the car
and hopefully never sell it any advice or tips you have about these cars
will be greatly accepted. Thanks for now, and I hope to hear from you
soon.
Thomas Mcstocker
A. I would go for the 91 as I think it was the last year before the
512tr. I have no idea what price you paying in Ireland. In the US the TR
is a buyer's market. You might contact the Ferrari Owners Club of Great
Britain at foc_queries@hotmail.com for better information.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I recently bought a 97
355. Now, there is an issue with valve guide's? What do I do? If you can
give me some direction it would be greatly apprecciated. Happy
Holiday's to you, freind's and family. Thank's again.
Zack
A. If I recently had bought a '97 355 I would have had a PPI (Pre
Purchase Inspection) done to find any issues with the car and then made
an offer accordingly. You can contact the seller and see if he is
willing to help out. Maybe this is a low milage car and the problem has
just surfaced. If the guides are the true problem [how bad is it using
oil/smoking] they will need to be replaced. You could replace the
seals and have the guides knerled but this will only be a temporary fix.
I would have any warranty explained before I had the work done. I
would also check if there are any other items that will need addressing
while the heads are off. Sorry for your loss of drive time.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. Need help removing the alternator on a 1996 F355 Spider. Is there a special tool to do it?
Richie
A. Replacing the alternator is a simple mechanic procedure. Why did
it fail(heat, connection/lack of ground, mechanical[belt tension]) or
has the battery run down so many times? Is there a/c coming from it,
computers don't like a/c? You can remove the access panel, belt,
electrical connections and mount and have the alternator rebuilt but,
ask for quality Denso parts or you may find yourself doing it again. I
find it much easier to remove on a 4 post lift.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I am intersted in buying
a 355 Berlinetta, which year is the best 95-99 and which year did the
paddles come in versus just standard, in additon does the TUBI exhausT
give a bout 10% increase in HP or is this a mith, and what should I be
paying, thank you, it would be my first Ferrari.
John Matijevic
A. To answer your question about which year is the best I will remind
you to check the site for backround information. Early 355's '95 had
ODB 1 and switched to OBD II and motronic 2.7 by '96. F1 cars were
'98-'99. Spiders and F1 cars have additional concerns/costs. There
were improvements/reduced costs with the start of 360. I don't know the
first year of the spiders but there are '97's out there. You may check
the Ferrari Market Letter for prices. You need to have a PPI (Pre
Purchase Inspection) done as well. Aftermarket part claims are varible
but I agree there would be an increase. There is a buyer's guide on the
web site and a questionnaire for you to use when you inspect the car
before you get the PPI.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
Q. I am a recent owner of a
355 gts. I watch the guages regularly and have noticed this week the on
a short 20k trip the oil pressure had dropped to 2.5-3 bar when idling.
It usually sits at 6-7 bar. Also the oil temp was up but not over 100
deg. On my way home the oil pressure was back up to 6-7 bar but would
drop to 3 bar when i put my foot on the clutch to change gears. I
checked the oil resevoir and oil levels were OK. No oil seems to be
leaking anywhere. Can you please give me your thoughts. Kind Regards.
Stuart Briggs
A. If my 355gts was showing fluctuating pressure I would install a
manual oil pressure guage and check pressures. You will see a drop in
pressure from a cold engine to a hot one. If pressures are good then
you would look at the sender, connection, and ground for system. Oil
pressure varies with engine RPM so it normally will be low at idle and
higher as your RPMs go up until it reaches the pressure limit setting.
To understand how your oil works better, check out the Introduction to
Motor Oil in the Educational Articles section of the web site
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi Forza Motor Cars
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